Streptocarpella: The Houseplant That Flowers All Year
Streptocarpella in a hanging basket, courtesy of Wellington Botanic Gardens, New Zealand.
Because it is easy to grow and flowers most of the year, the Streptocarpella makes an ideal gift, and that is how this plant entered my life. Its fuzzy, chubby stems and leaves were not particularly impressive, but its flowers are a heart-stopping lavender blue that will enliven any winter day. But there’s more — as I discovered when I moved my streptocarpella out onto the deck for the summer. Its stems cascaded over the sides of the pot and it bloomed profusely all summer long. And though there are recommended cultural practices, basically this plant will perform beautifully even if you don’t provide ideal conditions. The only problem I’ve had is figuring out its proper name. My friend gave me only one name — streptocarpella — and she explained that to remember it, just think of strep throat. Ugh. The official pronunciation is “strep-toe-CAR-pell-uh” — but there’s nothing about this plant that will remind you of strep throat; it’s easy to grow, adaptable, and is simply gorgeous all year.
Names and Confusions
A one-leaf wonder: Streptocarpus eylesii ssp. eylesii.
Photo: Ron Myhr
Streptocarpella is a tropical perennial found in moist, warm, and humid forests of Africa and is part of the large Gesneriaceae family, known as the Gesneriads (pronounced either “guess-NARE-ee-ad” or “jez-NARE-ee-ad”), which includes African violets and the well-known Cape primroses. After a bit of research, I discovered that my plant is part of the large Streptocarpus genus of evergreen perennials, monocarps and annuals which can be grouped into three very different growth forms:
–stemless clump-forming rosettes (the “rosulates”), including Cape primroses
–unifoliates (plants with a single leaf)
–soft, shrubby-stemmed plants
Streptocarpella is in the third group; it has stems (“caulescent”) and a more typical plant structure. It’s probably no surprise that streptocarpella is often confused with its relatives in the first group, which are usually referred to as Streptocarpus, even though these two “strepts” are markedly different in form. Because these two groups of plants are closely related, they are each classified as a subgenus of the genus Streptocarpus. So those one-leaf wonders and the Cape primroses are properly called — get ready, it’s a mouthful — Streptocarpus subgenus streptocarpus, while my gorgeous houseplant is properly identified as Streptocarpus subgenus Streptocarpella. There’s probably no need to master this mouthful, as many reliable authorities will refer to this plant as Streptocarpella saxorum, or Streptocarpus streptocarpella or simply as streptocarpella, which seems to function as a sort of common name. The plant does have a few common names. I have seen it referred to as nodding violet, false violet, Cape violet and even, oddly enough, “Cape primrose.”
It’s worth noting — especially for those with an interest in plant classifications — that in recent years taxonomists have re-classified the Streptocarpus genus and placed African violets in the Streptocarpella subgenus. If you’d like to know more about the taxonomy and reclassification, especially as it affected African violets, you’ll want to read articles on the rather extensive Gesneriad Reference Web, including, gesneriads.genera/streptocarpella and gesneriads.genera/Streptocarpus Saintpaulia.
And if you’d like to see photos of the many unusual plants in the Gesneriad family, you’ll enjoy the page entitled “Gesneriad Genera,” at Gesneriad Reference Web/Genera. It was a real eye-opener to me, and it helped me understand why this family of plants is so popular with plant hobbyists and is the focus of conventions and shows. www.gesneriadsociety.org.
Species and Hybrids
Streptocarpella ‘Concord Blue’ at Jardin Botanique, Paris, France; Photo: Salix, Wikimedia Commons
Most of the species in the subgenus Streptocarpella are not in cultivation, though a few are widely available in Africa, Europe, and North America as house plants and tender garden plants, including S. caulescens, S. kirkii, S. saxorum, S. glandulosissimus and S. hilsenbergii. There are a few hybrids, but the best-known and most commonly available one is S. ‘Concord Blue’ — pictured at right.
Now that I’ve warned you of all the possible name confusions, let me set your mind to rest with these wise words from plant guru Allan Armitage:
“Species that are useful for summer baskets and containers are similar in appearance, with small ovate leaves and 1-1½” long lavender tubular flowers. They may be Streptocarpus glandulosissimus, S. orientalis, or S. saxorum, but it is difficult to know just what is being sold out there. Quite truthfully, this really doesn’t matter: given low light and consistent moisture, plants are full of flowers throughout the summer into the fall. . . . Whatever is bought under the name Streptocarpus or Streptocarpella will enjoy filtered light and moist, but not wet, soils.”
— Armitage’s Manual of Annuals, Biennials, and Half-Hardy Perennials (p.456)
Growing Streptocarpella
Streptocarpella in winter. Photo: Cathy Caldwell
Streptocarpella is hardy in Zones 9 and 10, and it’s usually grown as a house plant in North America. Plant it in well-drained organic potting mix in a container that allows room below for the cascading stems — a plant stand is ideal. Place it in an area of bright light, but not direct sun. Windows that face either south or east are recommended. My plant is very happy in a south-facing window which is somewhat sheltered from direct sun. Water it regularly, and avoid getting water on the leaves because it causes browning. You’ll notice that the blooms appear on wiry “scapes” that are produced at the stem nodes. I’ve never pruned these after blooming, and my research suggests that no pruning is necessary. I DO need to repot my plant, which is getting potbound, but that’s an exciting prospect since by dividing it, I’ll gain a new one.
In late spring — after all danger of frost is past — I move my streptocarpella onto my deck into a position where it gets a bit of protection from hot afternoon sun. Sometimes I place it on a table, where its stems will cascade almost to the floor, but you could try putting it in a hanging basket, a very popular alternative.
For a photo of a lovely container garden featuring streptocarpella along with a number of other plants, see AggieHorticulture/Container Gardens/Tex.A&Am.
Made for each other: Streptocarpella and hanging baskets.
Photo: West Coast Gardens, British Columbia.
Propagation
Streptocarpella is reportedly easy to propagate, especially from stem cuttings. Cuttings of about 2 to 4 inches can be taken beneath a leaf node. When the cutting is placed in clean water, it will sprout roots. Keep the cuttings in bright, indirect light at about 65-68°F. Once the roots are about 2 inches long, you can pot up the cutting. For a photo showing a cutting in a small water glass, check out womanswork.com/2013/03/22/my-favorite-houseplant-streptocarpella-saxorum. Directions for growing from seed are available at PlantZAfrica/Streptocarpus saxorum.
If you are enamored with the idea of a houseplant that’s an unfussy non-stop bloomer, you’ll want to try streptocarpella. My local nursery just recently assured me that they’ll be arriving soon.
SOURCES:
Armitage’s Manual of Annuals, Biennials, and Half-Hardy Perennials (2001), p. 456.
“Streptocarpus subgenus Streptocarpella,” The Gesneriad Reference Web/genera/streptocarpella/
“Global Plants” database at https://plants.jstor.org/compilation/streptocarpus.glandulosissimus (Note: Global Plants is the world’s largest database of digitized plant specimens; its search page is at https://plants.jstor.org.
“Plant of the Week: Streptocarpella,” Univ.Ark. Ext. Resource Library
“Streptocarpus saxorum,” PlantZAfrica, South African National Biodiversity Institute
Gesneriad Reference Web: Growth Forms
Feature photo courtesy of Fairview Gardens, Raleigh, North Carolina
An engaging and informative article. Thanks! Pax, JBallenger
So nice to hear! Thanks, and happy gardening — Cathy
Loving this info. Will be on the lookout for one . . . thanks Cath!
I have found that to be a delicate plant. One friend of mine gave me some cuttings last year, some made it overwinter but most of them died.
The ones that survived don’t look very nice but one. I would like to share a picture, but don’t see the option here.
Streptocarpella is indeed a tender plant and cannot survive cold weather, at least not in our region. Though it can spend the summer outside, it is a houseplant for most of the year.
I want to move my streptocarpella indoors for the winter. How do I debug it before moving in without getting the leaves wet? Everything I have read about debugging plants involves soaking the entire plant in soapy water. Thank you!
Soak only the pot and use plain water. For detailed instructions on this and how to inspect for insects, read Bring Plants Indoors Now but Leave the Pests Behind. MSU Extension.
I have this plant indoors and while during last summer it bloomed the beautiful purple trumpet flowers, now it has no blooms at all, but still a beautiful velvety foliage. I’m missing the blooms though. Any suggestions?
One guess is that your plant may not be receiving enough sun. Mine really like a south-facing window. I have noticed, however, that there’s sometimes a period of no blooms until after the plant has been indoors for a time. I hope your plant is blooming soon!
Where can I buy that plant
I suggest checking with area nurseries. We have to avoid recommending any particular one.
Are streptocarpella and carbrachoa the same plant?
No, streptocarpella is not the same plant as calibrachoa (million bells), the plant I think you meant.
I know the plant as a False African Violet.
I planted a streptocarella concord blue in a porous clay pot that fits into a glazed pot. This was 6 weeks ago and I keep it indoors.. After a flush of blooms (present mostly as buds when I bought it), no additional flowers are in the making. I have added a low amount of African violet fertilizer every 2 weeks. I kept it in moderately low light at first, then moved it to an Eastern exposure with no direct sunlight. Still no sign of flowers. Is it possible that this type of planting pot keeps the roots too moist? Or am I just impatient?
My plants are not blooming at the moment either, so I’m going to do some research on our question. I believe there are usually a few bloom-free periods as the plant gathers energy for the next round, but will look into this.
Really enjoyed this article and comments. I bought a streptocarpella online last fall (2020) and it arrived after a cold snap and most of it was frosted and died – except for a tiny bit that I was successful in saving and I now have a magnificent plant that thoroughly enjoyed my patio over the summer and I have just brought it in for the winter. I was especially happy to know how easy it is to propagate and I will be sharing this lovely plant with friends and family. Thank you!
Thanks for your comment. I’m so happy that you’ve got a streptocarpella and will be able to share cuttings with friends and family. I have a few “babies” coming along at my house right now, and they’ll be wrapped in bows soon for my friends and family!
I bought a nodding violet a few months back and kept it in a low light area and I lost all the flowers and the plant became very leggy. I moved it to a bright position indoors in a hanging pot and started watering from below and is looking much healthier. Your article was super helpful. I cut out the dried flowering stems and I’m trying to get the plant to bloom. No luck so far.
In Chicago, we put these outside in the summer with north light. We have them under lights through the winter. They seem to initiate flower buds when the ‘day length’ (timer setting) is shortened to 10-12 hours. 10:30 AM to 9 PM.
A friend gave me a Streptocarpella (Cape Violet) several years ago but I just discovered the name! I love that it flowers all the time but I don’t know how to manage all the dead leaves that make it look messy. I have cut it back quite a bit but it still looks scraggly. It is in a sunroom and gets plenty of indirect light so its not leggy. Any advice please.
I simply pinch off the dead leaves. Hope this helps.
I purchased one of these recently with the intention of planting it outside. After reading your article, I wonder if that would be a mistake. I live in zone 10a and had intended to hang it under an oak tree. As the tree is trimmed quite high, I would call it a part sun/ bright shade situation. Do you think it would be unhappy there?
Since I garden in central Virginia, I have no personal experience with your question, but, according to NC State Extension, a Streptocarpella is hardy in USDA Plant Hardiness Zones
10b, 10a, 11b, 11a and needs a shady situation. See https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/streptocarpus/. You may want to check with your local Extension office.
Should I plant many cuttings into the same pot? My plant is just one (one cutting from a friend’s plant), branching out low, but I worry the main stem & roots won’t grow sturdy enough to maintain a plant the size of the ones in the photos.
In my own experience, cuttings will eventually become large plants; however, I haven’t researched this question.
I’ve been wanting to identify a plant like this for over a year. I remember when my friend got it it had flowers. She was going to throw it away and I took it. It has gotten big but never has flowered for me. I’m not sure if I should cut it back or what. It’s gotten so “long” but I want those sweet flowers. Any recommendations?
A streptocarpella that doesn’t flower is a puzzle. I’m wondering if your plant is getting enough light.
I have four streptocarpus that have been blooming nonstop for a year. Very bright light, dead head every few days and i give it Super Thrive every couple of weeks.
They are so beautiful!
Hi, love this plant. My sister gave it to me and it is thriving on my desk under the fluorescent light. However, while it is blooming profusely, some of the leaves are getting a yellow tint to them, in the middle of the leaves. Too much water? not enough water? something else? I water at the soil, being careful to not get the leaves wet. Maybe I should just put the water in the saucer below? thanks!
The leaves seem to have a limited lifespan, eventually fading to yellow and then a dried brown. I simply prune them off with my fingers after they turn brown.