The Garden Shed
A Community Newsletter published by the Piedmont Master Gardeners
June 2018 - Vol.4 No. 6
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Table of Contents
Recipe of the Month
Strawberry Beverages: A Delicious Way to Stay Hydrated This Summer
Strawberries, the most popular fruits of summer--or are they (fruits, that is)?
In the Ornamental Garden
Crape Myrtle – A Southern Icon Gets Even Better
Advances in crape myrtle broaden its use.
Tasks and Tips
Enjoy, improve, and maintain the June ornamental garden.
Upcoming Events
Through The Garden Gate: Judy Reigel’s Garden
June 9 @ 9:00 am – 12:00 pm
Judy Reigel’s Garden, 380 Spring Lane
Ivy, VA
Admission is $5 at the door
Garden Basics: Growing Herbs: Thyme for Fun
June 9 @ 2:00 pm – 4:00 pm
Trinity Episcopal Church, 1118 Preston Avenue
Charlottesville, 22903
Learn the basics for successful growing, harvesting and preserving a variety of useful and ornamental herbs. COST: FREE
HOW TO REGISTER: Send your contact information (name, address, phone number, and email address) and name of class (Garden Basics-Growing Herbs: Thyme for Fun) to…
Through The Garden Gate: Leslie Harris Garden
July 14 @ 9:00 am – 12:00 pm
Leslie Harris Garden, 2107 Minor Road
Charlottesville, VA
A double lot on a residential street near the University, this garden is now cultivated by Leslie Harris, a professional gardener who is the owner and principal of LH Gardens, a residential gardening service.
Admission is $5 at the door
Growing Lavender in Central Virginia
EDITOR’S NOTE: Our guest author Eileen DeCamp fell in love with lavender on a trip to Provence and has been growing it in Albemarle County since 2008. She took a course on growing lavender, and as her expertise grew, she became involved with other lavender growers, and joined the newly-formed United States Lavender Association in 2013.
Lavender is a beautiful addition to any garden, and there are over 450 lavender varieties and cultivars for the gardener to choose from! Lavender belongs to the Lamiaceae, or mint family, and comes in many sizes, foliage colors and flower colors. All lavenders are great for pollinators and are just a beautiful addition to your garden.
Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ and carpenter bee. Photo: Eileen DeCamp.
The two most popular types are Lavandula augustifolia — commonly called English lavender or just plain “lavender” — and Lavandula x Intermedia, commonly known as “lavandin.” The lavandins are a hybrid cross of the English species and the spike or Portuguese lavender (L. latifolia). Although the lavenders and lavandins are similar, the lavenders have a sweeter aroma and the lavandins are a bit more camphorous. It is just a scent preference. You have probably seen a third type — Lavandula stoechas — with its cylindrical flower heads topped with leaf-like bracts that look like butterfly wings. You will have to prune this type all summer to get continual flowering, and it is not hardy in our zone 7.
Lavandula × intermedia ‘Provence’
Photo: Eileen DeCamp
Lavenders are native to southern Europe, where the soil is rocky and lean. Those of you who have been on vacation in the Mediterranean know that it is dry with lots of sunshine. Here in Central Virginia — with clay soil, wet springs and summers and lots of humidity — growing lavender can be a challenge, but it can be done with a little planning and preparation of your selected site.
How to Grow Lavender in central Virginia
If you are thinking of planting lavender in your garden, step one is to test your soil. Lavender likes a neutral pH of 6.5 to 7.5, so you may need to add lime to our acidic local soil. When you submit your soil for testing, be sure to indicate that lavender is what you intend to plant. Then the soil test results from Virginia Tech’s Extension Service will tell you exactly how much lime to add. If you are planting lavender with other plants, try to choose plants that have the same requirements.
Lavender and yarrow, a beautiful combination.
Photo: Eileen DeCamp
Well-drained soil is key to success with lavender. Lavender does NOT like wet feet, and without proper drainage, it will develop root rot. If you have clay soil, you will need to amend with organic matter, preferably compost. Remember, lavenders grow well in rocky, sandy, dry soils, so your clay may benefit from the addition of small stones or gravel. You can also plant your lavender on mounds or on a slope, which will help with drainage. If you are planting a row of lavender, make sure you have enough room around each plant for air circulation, which is especially important in our area due to the humidity. You also want a site that receives 6-8 hours of full sun. Lavender doesn’t need much fertilizer. Once lavender is established, you could use a low-nitrogen fertilizer to establish stronger roots. Do not mulch your lavender with regular wood mulch because that will hold in moisture, which can cause root rot. You can mulch with pea gravel or white rock, which will reflect the sun under the plant to dry out any water from heavy rains.
After the lavender has bloomed, which is usually anywhere from the end of May to mid-July, you will want to prune it to keep it from becoming woody or leggy. This also helps protect the lavender in the winter from breaking open from heavy snowfall. I usually prune my lavender in early September so it has time to recover before the cold sets in. I usually cut it back by 1/3.
Which varieties to plant?
Lavandula x Intermedia ‘Grosso’
Photo: Eileen DeCamp
I recommend a few varieties that have been very successful in my gardens. The first is the cultivar Grosso (Lavandula x Intermedia ‘Grosso’), a lavandin which becomes quite large, 32-36 inches in height, with stems of 20-24 inches. Grosso has a gorgeous dark purple color. If you have the room in your garden, this is a great one to try.
Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’
The cultivar ‘Hidcote’ (Lavandula angustifolia) is a good one to try in a smaller space. Its stems are shorter — about 6-8 inches, the plant height is 12-20 inches, and the flowers are a lovely dark blue color. This is an excellent lavender to try in recipes or lavender lemonade.
If you would like to try a pink lavender, then ‘Melissa’ is an excellent choice. It is also used in culinary dishes, and its stem length is 8-10 inches and the plant height is 30 inches. If you have a really small area, then try ‘Wee One’ (Lavandula angustifolia ‘Wee One’ ), a dwarf variety which only gets 10 inches tall and has short blue flower spikes.
I must also mention a new cultivar that is getting rave reviews — Lavandula x Intermedia ‘Phenomenal’ — a lavandin which reportedly stands up to our humidity and weather conditions better than others. www.waltersgardens.com; PennStateExt.edu/master-gardener/allegheny county.
If you would like to learn more about lavender, I would recommend The Lavender Lover’s Handbook by Sarah Berringer Bader. This is an excellent resource, featuring 100 varieties with information on growing, harvesting, cooking, and crafting. The photos are lovely and accompanied by helpful information on each variety.
I know from experience that it can be challenging to grow a Mediterranean plant like lavender in Central Virginia, but with a little work and care, you can do it!
SOURCES:
The Lavender Lover’s Handbook: The 100 Most Beautiful and Fragrant Varieties for Growing, Crafting, and Cooking (Bader, 2012).
Lavandula x intermedia ‘Grosso’, www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder
Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder
Lavandula x intermedia ‘Phenomenal’ extension.psu.edu/programs/master-gardener/allegheny county
“Lavender: History, Taxonomy, and Production,” North Carolina State Extension, newcropsorganics.ces.ncsu.edu/herb/lavender
Crape Myrtle – A Southern Icon Gets Even Better
One of the most beloved, iconic trees of the south, crape myrtle is prized for its long, vibrant bloom period in the height of summer heat. Commonly called the “lilac of the South,” the spelling of this tree is a litmus test of geographic origins. Crepe myrtle is the most commonly accepted “southern” spelling; north of some unspecified crepe-myrtle line, it becomes crape myrtle. But despite the difference in spelling, this selection consistently offers clouds of blooms, attractive exfoliating bark, colorful leaf color in fall, and a variety of sizes ranging from 20” shrubs to 30’ trees. In fact, this multi-stemmed deciduous plant is considered either a tree or a shrub depending on size. Cultivar heights range from dwarf to semi-dwarf, medium to tall. The exfoliating bark peels away to expose a trunk which ranges in color from many handsome shades of brown to gray to pink. This bark is especially noticeable in the winter months when the tree is leafless, giving crape myrtle its prized four-season interest.
Lagerstroemia ‘Natchez’: David J. Stang
Lagerstroemia ‘Acoma’: David Ohmer
Lagerstroemia is a genus of about 40 species of deciduous and evergreen shrubs and trees from warm-temperate to tropical areas of Asia to Australia. The genus name honors Magnus von Lagerstroem (1691-1759), Swedish botanist, Director of the Swedish East Indies Company, and friend of Linnaeus. The most common species in the United States is Lagerstroemia indica. Although native to China and Korea, the species name (indica) indicates that the plant originated on the Indian subcontinent. When Europeans first encountered crape myrtle in India, they assumed it was native to that location. It was introduced into South Carolina in the late 1700s. L. fauriei, native to Japan, is another species found in the United States. Hybrids of the two species generally produce excellent selections.
PLANTING
The ideal planting site is in well-prepared, well-drained soil, with full sun exposure and good air circulation. Crape myrtles planted in partial or full shade will have reduced flowering and increased disease susceptibility. The plant will tolerate slightly alkaline to acidic (5.0 to 6.5 pH) clay and other soil textures. Although drought-tolerant, it requires irrigation until it becomes well-established (approximately two years).
FERTILIZATION
Light fertilization is best; heavy fertilization can increase foliage production at the expense of flowering. Light applications of a complete fertilizer in spring after leaves have appeared and in summer are adequate. A complete general-purpose garden fertilizer — such as 8-8-8, 10-10-10, 12-4-8 or 16-4-8 — is ideal. For newly–planted small plants (1-gallon size), apply 1 teaspoon of fertilizer along the perimeter of the planting hole monthly from March to August. Larger, established plants will benefit from one broadcast application of fertilizer in spring after the leaves have appeared. The best time to fertilize is just before a rain. Otherwise, water in the fertilizer after application. It is not necessary to remove mulch when fertilizing.
PRUNING
Flowers are produced on new growth. On smaller plants, a second bloom can be encouraged by pruning flowers immediately after they fade. Severe pruning of crape myrtles has become a common practice to maintain shrub size. Chopping off the tops of crape myrtles, known as “topping” or “Crape Murder” ruins the natural, graceful effect of the plant. Many dwarf and semi-dwarf cultivars are now available, making it possible for the homeowner to have the desired plant size while maintaining the natural branching effect. The best way to maintain a crape myrtle is to plant an appropriate cultivar that will grow to the height and spread desired at maturity.
Corrective pruning should be done to remove damaged or dead branches when a problem is detected. Otherwise, prune while the plant is dormant (winter or early spring) to remove lateral branches, small twigs, or branches in the center of the plant to open more space for sun and air movement.
To develop a tree shape, remove all but three to five of the strongest trunks at ground level. As these trunks mature, remove lower, lateral branches (aka ‘limbing-up’) to one-third or halfway up the height of the plant. Remove branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other as well as shoots growing into the center of the canopy. Make cuts to a side branch or close to the trunk. As the tree grows taller, remove lower branches as needed. Remove any future growth from the ground to retain the desired tree shape. Basal sprouting may occur whether the tree has been pruned or not. When possible, pull these sprouts out while still succulent. Wait a growing season or two before grooming and shaping tree forms to allow them to get established and build reserves.
For more information on the pruning of crape myrtle, refer to the Clemson Cooperative Extension, HGIC 1009, Crape Myrtle Pruning
When a large crape myrtle is in a spot where a low, compact plant is desired, there are two options: (1) dig up the offending specimen and then plant a dwarf or smaller cultivar that requires little to no maintenance, or (2) prune the stems back to about six inches above the ground each year. Severe pruning will not kill or injure a healthy crape myrtle.
PROPAGATION
Crape myrtle is propagated easily from semi-hard wood cuttings taken during spring and summer. Take 6-8” cuttings from new growth, leaving three to four nodes per cutting and several leaves. Rooting hormone is generally not necessary, and cuttings should root in three to four weeks. Place cuttings in well-drained rooting medium in a shaded area; keep them moist by enclosing them in a clear plastic bag. The young rooted plants can be transplanted to their permanent location during the fall and winter. (Note: It’s illegal to propagate plants that are still under patent.)
DISEASES AND PESTS
Crape myrtles are susceptible to many problems including: powdery mildew, sooty mold, black spot, tip blight, Cercospera leaf spot, and root rot. Aphids and Florida wax scale, also potential pests, occur relatively infrequently.
Powdery mildew is a common disease in early summer during hot, dry weather. It appears as a white, powdery coating or spots on leaves and flower buds. Treatment is rarely needed, although heavy infections of the flower buds can cause them to abort.
Sooty mold is an unsightly superficial, dark brown or black coating on leaves and stems that can be removed by rubbing. It is the result of a fungus growing on honey-dew excretions made by insects such as aphids. Plant vigor may be decreased because of the reduction of photosynthesis in the leaves due to shading.
Tip blight results from a fungus that causes leaves near the tips of the tree branches to turn brown in spring or summer. Look closely at the infected foliage to see the small black spore-bearing bodies.
Cercospora leaf spot is a fungus disease that occurs more in mid-to-late summer, particularly when weather is rainy. Dark spots show up on the leaves, which then turn yellow or orange and drop. Even though trees may lose a large portion of their leaves, there are no long-term, serious health effects. By the time you see this disease, spraying is not effective.
Crape myrtle is resistant to deer.
SELECTION CRITERIA
Choosing a crape myrtle is not just a matter of selecting a particular color. The desired mature size is a major consideration. The garden rule of “right plant, right place” is expanded to “right size, right place.” Because crape myrtles are best if not pruned, size selection becomes paramount. James Hodges of the Clemson Extension advises the following steps for choosing well-adapted, suitably-sized plants in desirable colors:
- Research cultivar information on crape myrtles and take it with you for the purchasing decision.
- Know the potential mature size (small shrub, medium shrub, or various sized trees) of the cultivars under consideration.
- For cold-hardiness, select cultivars that are classified as Zone 7 or lower according to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
- Choose cultivars that are resistant to powdery mildew and aphid insects; treating these problems is often difficult on larger plants.
- Select named cultivars and keep these records so you can match additional plants in the future; this will also help you identify good and poor cultivars based on your site.
NATIONAL ARBORETUM CULTIVARS
Many of the successful crape myrtle cultivars have been developed by the National Arboretum research and breeding programs. Many of these hybrids are named for Indian tribes, which makes it easy for gardeners to remember and to identify particular selections. These cultivars were also developed for mildew resistance. The mature heights of these trees vary by temperature, i.e., they may grow to the high end of the stated range (or more) in southern climates but remain much smaller in colder climates. As you will see from the following list, size at maturity is significantly impacted by temperature. The following list represents some of the cultivars developed at the National Arboretum; all are recommended for Zone 7 or lower. All have dark green foliage that offers fall color, exfoliating bark, and terminal inflorescences (panicles) of flowers.
Lagerstroemia ‘Natchez’: David Ohmer
Lagerstroemia ‘Natchez’ grows 4’ to 21’ tall; orange to red fall color; dark cinnamon bark; and 6-12” long white flowers.
Lagerstroemia indica ‘Muskogee’ grows to 12’ to 25’ tall; reddish-orange fall color; gray to tan bark; up to 10” long light lavender-pink flowers.
Laerstroemia ‘Yuma’ grows 6′ to 20′ tall; dull yellow-orange fall color; grayish-brown bark; up to 14″ long bicolored lavender flowers.
Lagerstroemia ‘Choctaw’ grows 3’ to 18’ tall; bronze to maroon fall color; dark bark shows light brown exfoliation; 7-17″ long bright pink flowers.
Lagerstroemia ‘Tuscarora’: David J. Stang
Lagerstroemia ‘Apalachee’: Dave Whitinger
Lagerstroemia ‘Apalachee’ grows 2’ to 12’ tall; dull orange to dark red fall color; cinnamon to gray bark; 5-9” long light lavender flowers.
Lagerstroemia ‘Tuscarora’ grows 2’ to 16’ tall; reddish-orange fall color; mottled tan bark; 6-12” long dark coral-pink flowers.
Lagerstroemia indica ‘Hopi’ grows 4’ to 11’ tall; reddish-orange fall color; grayish-brown bark; 6-7” long light pink flowers.
Lagerstroemia ‘Comanche’ grows 3’ to 11’ tall; dark orange to dark reddish-purple fall color; mottled sandlewood bark; 6-9” coral-pink flowers.
Lagerstroemia ‘Acoma’ grows 2’ to 10’ tall; dull red or reddish-purple fall color; gray bark; 6-7” long white flowers.
Lagerstroemia ‘Potomac’ grows 2’ to 10’ tall; dull orange to dark red fall color; grayish bark; 6-8” long medium pink flowers.
Lagerstroemia ‘Tonto’ grows 2’ to 11’ tall; dull red to reddish-purple fall color; beige bark; 6-7” long bright magenta flowers.
DWARF CULTIVARS
The RAZZLE DAZZLE SERIES® of six dwarf plants was developed at a Michael Dirr breeding program at the Center for Applied Nursery Research in Dearing, Georgia. These deciduous, multi-stemmed cultivars are noted for ease of care, excellent flower colors, handsome foliage, compact habit, and good disease resistance. If spent flowers are promptly deadheaded, additional flowers will continue to bloom into fall. Flowers give way to round seed capsules which often persist well into winter.
- Lagerstroemia indica ‘Gamad I’ CHERRY DAZZLE grows 3′ to 5’ tall and wide; full sun to part sun; burgundy-red fall color; grayish-brown bark; cherry-red flowers.
- Lagerstroemia ‘Gamad V’ DAZZLE ME PINK grows 3′ to 4’ tall and wide; full sun to part sun; burgundy-red fall color; grayish-brown bark; bubblegum-pink flowers.
- Lagerstroemia ‘Gamad VI’ BERRY DAZZLE grows 3′ to 4’ tall and wide; full sun; burgundy new foliage; early bloomer; fuchsia-purple flowers.
- Lagerstroemia ‘Gamad VII’ SWEETHEART DAZZLE grows 2′ to 3’ tall and 4′ to 5’ wide; full sun to full shade; beautiful pink flowers.
- Lagerstroemia ‘PllLAG-1’ DIAMOND DAZZLE grows 3′ to 4’ tall and wide; full sun; pure white flowers.
- Lagerstroemia ‘PllLAG-2’ STRAWBERRY DAZZLE grows 4′ to 5’ tall and wide; full sun; neon-pink flowers.
The following are deciduous, mildew-resistant dwarf crape myrtle cultivars developed by the National Arboretum in Washington, D.C.
Lagerstroemia ‘Pocomoke’: David J. Stang
- Lagerstroemia ‘Pocomoke’ grows 2’ to 5’ tall; glossy, dark green leaves emerge maroon in spring, turn dark green in late spring, and finally turn bronze-red in fall; gray to tan bark; deep rose-pink flowers.
- Lagerstroemia ‘Chickasaw’ is a dwarf-mounded shrub that grows only 20″ tall by 26″ wide over a period of 7 years; pinkish-lavender flowers from midsummer to frost.
MIDSIZED CRAPE MYRTLES
Micheal Dirr has also developed a Barnyard® series of midsized crape myrtles, including:
- Lagerstroemia x ‘Gamad VIII’ Pink Pig grows 6′ to 10’ tall and 5’ wide; full sun; burgundy buds followed by large, soft, pale pink flowers.
- Lagerstroemia x ‘Gamad IX’ Purple Cow grows 6′ to 10’ tall and 5’ wide; full sun to part sun, deep purple flowers.
- Lagerstroemia ‘PllLAG III’ Red Rooster grows 8′ to 10’ tall and 5’ wide; full sun; foliage starts as burgundy in spring before turning dark green; brilliant red flowers.
Note that, as with any new cultivars, an introductory period in the general market will provide more information on cold-hardiness, disease, desired moisture levels, and sunlight requirements.
WARNINGS
During the long blooming season, old flowers drop out of the trees. This is a nuisance when trees are planted near patios, pools, and parked cars. Honeydew drops from aphids may also stick on cars or patio furniture.
A common problem with crape myrtles is injury from the careless use of mowers and string trimmers around the base of these thin-barked trees. To prevent this type of damage, do not allow grass to grow within a foot of the trunk. To deter weeds, cover the area around the tree base with about 4” of mulch pulled back slightly from the trunk.
USES IN THE LANDSCAPE
Because of the great variety in size of various cultivars now offered, crape myrtles can be planted as specimen trees or as a brilliant border of color in group plantings. Midsized cultivars can be used in smaller landscapes. Dwarf varieties offer a brilliant, long-lasting color to perennial beds or to foundation plantings. They can even be used in planters and placed on decks and patios. The color palette is broad and beautiful. The crape myrtle’s historical presence in southern gardens will become even more prevalent now that it’s been given so many new looks!
SOURCES
At top of article, photo of Lagerstroemia ‘Muskogee’ by David J. Lang
“Lagerstroemia-indica,” https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/all/lagerstroemia-indica/
“Crape Myrtle Pruning, https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/crape-myrtle-pruning/
“Star Gardener: Not all Crape Myrtles are Created Equal,” http://easthamptonstar.com/Arts/4/Star-Gardener-Not-All-Crape-Myrtles-Are-Created-Equal
“Choosing Right Crepe Myrtles,” http://www.indexjournal.com/lifestyles/columnists/clemson-extension/clemson-extension-choosing-right-crape-myrtles/article_ec8198a4-7e4a-5a81-96b6-0332e5a995b5.html
“Crape Myrtle,” https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/crape-myrtle/
USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/
“Crape Myrtle Culture – University of Georgia,” https://secure.caes.uga.edu/extension/publications/files/pdf/C%20944_5.PDF
Clemson University’s HGIC plant search website, https://hgic.clemson.edu/
Gardener’s Confidence Collection, https://gardenersconfidence.com/plants/red-rooster-crapemyrtle
Missouri Botanical Garden Plant Finder, http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=250246&isprofile=1&basic=lagerstroemia
The Ornamental Garden in June
The June garden is alive with color. Perennials are hitting the peak of their first cycle of summer bloom. How can we make sure that color will continue throughout the growing season? And how do we take care of our garden in early summer so that it can endure the demands of a sultry July and August?
ADD COLOR WITH PERENNIALS
June-blooming perennials make our gardens come alive. They are the reward for an ornamental gardener’s planning, work, and nurturing. Perennials usually offer a two-to-three-week bloom period. It takes some careful planning, or perhaps some trial-and-error fortuitous planting, to get a continuous bloom from different perennial groupings.
Nurseries like to sell plants when they are in bloom, so plant shopping can be an overly-tempting experience! Make a mental note and draw up a list or even draw a quick sketch of gaps in your garden. Consider whether you want to fill that space with a current bloomer or a later-season bloomer. In addition to color, consider which foliage textures would be attractive. Do you want taller perennials for the back of the garden, or shorter-to-midsized perennials for the front and midsection?
The website for the Lewis Ginter Garden in Richmond highlights plants in bloom each month and June bloomers include: Magnolia grandiflora; Hydrangea quercifolia or oakleaf hydrangea; Hydrangea paniculata ‘Pink Diamond’; Hydrangea serrata ‘Blue Billow’; Echinacea pupurea or ‘Pink Double Delight’ coneflower; Echinacea paradoxa or yellow coneflower; Papaver somniferum or opium poppy; Iris ensata ‘Ise’ or Japanese water iris; Calopogon pallidus or pale grass pink or swamp pink; Hemerocallis or daylilies, Platycodon grandifloras ‘Sentimental Blue’ or balloon flower; Rosa ‘Julia Child’; Scabiosa columbaria ‘Butterfly Blue’ or pincushion flower; Mondarda didya ‘Jacob Cline’ or bee balm; and Kniphofia triangularis or red-hot poker, and more!
Papaver orientalis ‘Princess Victoria Louise’ poppy: Heartflame Garden, Elkton, VA
Hydrangea quercifolia or Oakleaf hydrangea
Bloom periods can also be extended by growing different varieties of the same plant. Hydrangeas, for example, offer varieties that bloom from mid-spring to late summer. Wild roses or heirloom roses bloom once in spring but rose cultivars in a spectrum of colors were developed to provide continuous bloom from spring through first frost.
ADD COLOR WITH ANNUALS
Another approach for continuous color is to add annuals as June perennials reach the end of their bloom period.
Lantana is a great option for lots of color ranging from white to orange to yellow, pink, and lavender. As the individual flowers age, they often change color, giving the blossoms a bicolor effect. The foliage can be mildly poisonous to some animals, including deer. See the Clemson Cooperative Extension Factsheet on Lantana.
Lantana camara
Angelonia angustifolia or summer snapdragon is an annual that grows 12-18’ in height, in colors that range from deep mauve to lavender, pink, and white. The plant tolerates heat and humidity and is deer resistant. Its leaves are somewhat aromatic. See the Missouri Botanical Garden Plant Finder for more information.
Angelonia augustifolia: Wikimedia Commons
Verbena x hybrida ‘Mageliana’: Wikimedia Commons
Verbena x hybrida, commonly called garden verbena, is a short-lived perennial in zones 9-11 but is grown as an annual in zone 7. It is noted for its profuse bloom of small five-petaled flowers in rounded clusters (to 3” wide) from late spring to fall. Plants can be mat-forming/trailing (to 10” tall) to bushy/upright (to 20” tall). Flower colors include blue, violet, purple, rose, dark red, yellow, white and bicolor. Some varieties are fragrant. Oblong toothed leaves (to 4” long) are gray-green to dark green. The plant’s deer resistance is rated B by the Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station; that rating means “seldom severely damaged.”
Gomphrena or globe amaranth, also deer resistant, is treated as an annual north of Zone 9. Gomphrena is one of 90 related species belonging to the Amaranth family. Gomphrena globosa is the species most commonly grown in this country. It is a 12” to 24” tall annual bedding plant with 1” to 2” globe-shaped flower heads that resemble clover blossoms. Cultivars come in shades of white, pink, purple, and magenta. Blooms enliven the garden from early summer until frost. This plant was highlighted in the September 2017 issue of The Garden Shed.
MAINTENANCE
Watering
After a rainy spring season, it is hard to imagine the beginning of a summer drought. But June often brings drier weather which means we need to start watering and keep watering newly planted plants, container plants, and any established plants that look wilted after even a short dry period. In times of drought, water infrequently and deeply, about 1” per week. For more info, see The Garden Shed June 2016 article, “Growing Things When the Rains Don’t Come.”
Weeding
Weed. And weed some more. Mulching not only helps retain moisture, but it deters weeds and makes weed-pulling easier. Commonly-seen weeds in June include:
- Crabgrass – The best crabgrass preventer is a healthy, thick lawn, and soil with the proper pH balance (7.0-7.5). Perennial ryegrass is the best competition for crabgrass. Crabgrass thrives in compacted lawns so aeration can be beneficial.
- Pigweed – An annual that reproduces by seeds, pigweed is characterized by its fleshy, red taproot. This weed appears in late spring or early summer and likes warm weather. Try to pull it out before it flowers.
- Chickweed – There are two species of chickweed, one perennial (mouse-ear) and one annual (common chickweed). Common chickweed is easier to control. Both types have shallow roots, so they can often be removed by hoeing or hand-pulling. New plants can grow from broken pieces of mouse-ear rootstock, however, so make sure you remove the entire plant.
- Lamb’s Quarters – This fast-growing annual reproduces by seeds. This summer weed rapidly removes moisture from soil, so extract it with a hoe from your garden as soon as possible.
- Purslane –This weed appears in late spring or early summer and likes warm weather and rich, fertile soil. This annual reproduces by tiny black seeds and stem fragments. Pull out the weed as soon as you see it and destroy the plant; this weed can live in your soil for years.
See the following article for helpful weed identification photos and for more information: “Identifying Common Yard and Garden Weeds.”
Fertilizing
A soil test at the beginning of summer is the best approach for determining how much fertilizer is needed. If the garden soil has been amended nicely, less fertilizer is required. If you apply 1-2” of leaf mold or compost to your garden at the beginning of each summer, you may not need to add fertilizer. Heavy fertilization could increase foliage at the expense of blooms.
What nutrients are necessary? Let’s assume you use a 5-10-5 fertilizer: the first number is nitrogen, the second is phosphorous, and the third is potassium. Some products that claim to increase flowering have higher levels of phosphorous. But if your soil test says your phosphorous levels are adequate, adding phosphorous could be detrimental. You could choose a light application of 4 to 7 pounds of a complete organic fertilizer (3-4-4) per 100 square feet. Spread fertilizer in small rings around each plant in March. Repeat twice at 6 week intervals. Apply another treatment of fertilizer to late-blooming plants in late summer, but make sure you don’t fertilize after 6 weeks before the average first frost. Always water the bed after applying fertilizer. This will wash the fertilizer off the foliage and prevent burn. It will also make fertilizer available to the plants immediately.
Deadheading
As soon as plants are allowed to set seed, chemical messages are sent back telling flower production to stop. Deadheading short-circuits this message so that flowering will continue. Trimming off spent foliage also keeps the garden looking fresh when leaves are spent or have been damaged by slugs or insects.
Disbudding
To gain large blooms from perennials, as opposed to more numerous but smaller blooms, plants can be disbudded. In disbudding, small side buds are removed, which allows the plant to concentrate its energy to produce one or a few large blooms. Peonies and chrysanthemums are examples of plants which are often disbudded.
Staking
As the season progresses, some taller plants or top-heavy plants benefit from staking. If plants fall over, the stem will function poorly where it has been bent. If the stem is cracked, disease organisms can penetrate the break. Stake plants when you set them out so they will grow to cover the stakes. When staked, tall perennials can better withstand hard, driving rain and wind.
Select stakes that will be 6 to 12 inches shorter than the height of the grown plant. Place stakes behind the plants and sink them into the ground far enough to be firm. Loosely tie plants to the stakes, using paper-covered wire, plastic, or other soft material. Tie the plant by making a double loop of the wire with one loop around the plant and the other around the stake. Never loop the tie around both stake and plant. The plant will hang to one side and the wire may girdle the stem. Add ties as the stem lengthens.
PRUNING
There are MANY shrubs that should be pruned in May-June-July. Please see the shrub pruning schedule published by the Virginia Cooperative Extension for a list. Be aware that spring or early summer blooming shrubs such as azaleas, forsythia, viburnums, rhododendrons, and hydrangeas should be pruned after blooming but before new buds are set. These shrubs bloom on old wood, which means the plant forms the flower buds for next year’s blooms during the current year. The buds are carried through winter on last year’s growth – the old wood.
JAPANESE BEETLE
The Japanese beetle, Popillia japonica, can feed on the foliage, flowers, and fruit of over 275 different plant species. Some of the Japanese beetle’s favorite ornamental landscape plants are roses, crape myrtle, linden, hibiscus, crab apple, and elm. Damage called “skeletonization” is caused by the insects feeding on the upper leaf surface and eating tissue between leaf veins. This gives leaves a lacy appearance. Most damage from Japanese beetles is temporary; plants will produce new leaves and flowers when the beetles are gone.
Japanese beetles are active during the day. Morning is a good time to knock the beetles off plants into soapy water. Although traps can be used to monitor the levels of Japanese beetles, they are not effective in getting rid of them. Beetles are good fliers and can detect trap lures from far away. Therefore, traps might actually attract more beetles to a landscape and increase damage.
The larvae, called grubs, are white and ‘C’ shaped with yellow-brown heads. They burrow through the soil, feeding on the roots of grass and shrubs. Areas of dead grass may appear when large numbers of grubs are present, especially during dry spells in September or early October. Japanese beetle grubs rarely do enough damage in a home lawn to warrant treatment.
INVASIVE SPOTLIGHT
Japanese stiltgrass, Microstegium vimineum, is an invasive plant that is now common to the Piedmont area. The following information is from Blue Ridge PRISM (Partnership for Regional Invasive Species Management, www.blueridgeprism.org/factsheets).
Microstegium vimineum or stiltgrass: National Park Service
Seed germinates from April into June. In mid-to-late summer, flowers form low down on the stems, hidden between stem and leaf sheaths. These hidden flowers do not open but are self-pollinating, assuring seed set. Later, more visible flowers bloom at the stem tips and are wind–pollinated. Flowering begins any time from July into October, and seeds ripen and drop to the ground from August to December.
Treatment: Hand-pulling small infestations before plants set seed is effective but labor intensive. Plants pull easily from moist soil. Consider hand-weeding around desirable native plants before applying herbicide. Mowing and weed-whacking can greatly reduce seed formation. Mowing is feasible only in open areas, not in forest settings. If stiltgrass is cut in June, flowers low on the stems may bloom earlier than usual, so repeat mowing is needed. Mowing is best done just before flowering in August and September and needs to be done only once if you wait until then. Cut stiltgrass as low as possible, scalping the ground, to remove all flowers.
Foliar Spraying: Japanese stiltgrass is easily killed with low concentrations of herbicides. Researchers at Virginia Tech showed that a grass-selective herbicide is the most effective control method. When a grass-selective herbicide is used, more native plants return than when a non-selective type of herbicide is used. This proved true even at the very low concentration that kills stiltgrass and spares many desirable plants. The recommended time for spraying is from July into early September and before a particular area of stiltgrass flowers and sets seed. A broad-spectrum herbicide works best when stiltgrass is actively growing in spring and summer and works less well in late summer and fall or during drought. Grass-specific herbicides work throughout the season. Where stiltgrass grows in a lawn, treat the lawn in spring and summer with a pre-emergent crabgrass killer to stop stiltgrass seed germination. Two to three years of treatment are usually required for effective eradication.
For more information, see the “Invasive Plants” article in the February 2015 issue of The Garden Shed and “Japanese Stiltgrass Control in the Home Lawn and Landscape,” N.J. Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet FS1237, njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1237 (Oct. 2014).
SUMMARY
June is a busy time, both for enjoying the fruits of your labor, and for preparing the garden for the challenges of mid-to-late summer. You can fine-tune your garden’s color palette and prolong bloom by adding perennials and annuals. Watering, weeding, fertilizing, deadheading, disbudding, and staking are all ongoing tasks to improve the garden’s health and appearance. June is also the time to prune shrubs that bloom on old wood. A garden pest common to June is the Japanese beetle. Although pesky, it is usually not a fatal invader. And finally, an unwelcome garden and yard intruder is Japanese stiltgrass, a problem invasive that germinates seed in early summer.
SOURCES
“Gardening with Perennials: Perennials by Blooming Period,” http://extension.illinois.edu/perennials/specific.cfm?NodeID=3883
“Perennial Flowers Bloom Guide,” http://www.costafarms.com/get-growing/news/perennial-flowers-bloom-guide
“June Blooms,” http://www.lewisginter.org/visit/gardens/whats-in-bloom/june-blooms/
“Growing Perennials,” https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/growing-perennials/
“Lantana,” https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/lantana/
“Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance,” https://njaes.rutgers.edu/deer-resistant-plants/
“Deer Resistant Species,” https://www.wildflower.org/collections/printable.php?collection=deer
“Gomphrena – An Antidote for the Late Summer Blahs,” http://pmgarchives.com/article/gomphrena-an-antidote-for-the-late-summer-garden-blahs/
“Angelonia augustifolia,” http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=b444
“June Yard and Garden Tips,” http://www.clemson.edu/extension/laurens/yard_garden/06_june.html
“Identifying Common Yard and Garden Weeds,” https://www.almanac.com/content/common-garden-weeds
“Perennials: Culture, Maintenance and Propagation,” https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-203/426-203.html
“Growing Perennials,” https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/growing-perennials/
“Fertilizing Established Perennial Gardens: Feed ‘em and Weep,” http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/fertilizing_established_perennial_gardens_feed_em_and_weep
“A Guide to Successful Pruning, Shrub Pruning Calendar,” https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-462/430-462.html
“Japanese Beetles on Ornamental Landscape Plants,” https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/japanese-beetle-1
Factsheet: “Insidious and Formidable Invasive: Japanese Stiltgrass,” http://blueridgeprism.org/factsheets/
“Invasive Plants,” http://pmgarchives.com/article/invasive-plants-whats-all-the-fuss-about/
Strawberry Beverages: A Delicious Way to Stay Hydrated This Summer
Did you know? Strawberries are not fruits at all. These runner plants of the genus Fragaria are actually in the Rosaceae family. The seeds of the berries appear on the outside hulls, each one averaging 200 seeds, and do not produce more plants.
Local, fresh strawberries are dotting the farmers’ markets all across Virginia. Eat them right off the vine, bake them into a pie, make strawberry shortcake, top them with whipped cream, bring out the ice cream churn, or use them in an endless variety of drinks. The web is full of suggestions. I have chosen three to share with you here because I think all three work well with fresh (as opposed to frozen) berries. Strawberry-Basil Lemonade is light and refreshing and not overly sweet. We’ve probably all made fruit smoothies, but I had never made one with grapefruit. The addition of this acidic fruit gives the smoothie a tartness, counteracted by sweet apple and ginger. Delicious! The final drink, goes down smoothly for the adults on the porch–cold, refreshing, and quietly intoxicating. No need to wonder how you will use all those berries your grandchildren picked; turn your kitchen into a strawberry factory, enjoying each of these offerings.
FRESH STRAWBERRIES YIELD REFRESHING DRINKS WHEN COMBINED WITH
LEMONS, LIMES, GRAPEFRUIT, APPLES, SUGAR, AND PERHAPS A LITTLE RUM!
Strawberry-Basil Lemonade
Compliments of Whatsgabycooking.com
Serves 4-6
INGREDIENTS
- 10 lemons, juiced (about 1 cup of fresh lemon juice)
- ¾ cup super fine sugar
- 4 cups water
- 8-10 strawberries, tops removed
- 1/3 cup fresh basil
- 1/2 cup gin or vodka (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS
- Juice the lemons and transfer the juice into a large pitcher.
- Add the sugar and the water and stir to combine and dissolve the sugar.
- Add the strawberries and basil.
- Using an immersion blender, blend the mixture for about 20 seconds just until the mixture turns pink and the basil is finely chopped.
- Add alcohol if desired. Serve over crushed ice and enjoy!
Strawberry-Grapefruit Smoothie
Compliments of marthastewart.com
Serves 3-4
INGREDIENTS
- 1 grapefruit, peeled, seeded, and chopped
- 2 cups hulled fresh or frozen strawberries
- 1 sweet apple (Honeycrisp or Pink Lady), cored and chopped
- 1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
INSTRUCTIONS
Combine ingredients, plus 1 cup water, in a blender and process until smooth. If desired, add yogurt and/or honey.
Frozen Strawberry Daiquiri
Compliments of thekitchn.com
Serves 4-6
INGREDIENTS
- 1 cup white rum
- 3 cups fresh strawberries, hulled and roughly chopped
- 1/4 cup lime juice, freshly squeezed
- Ice cubes, as needed (see Recipe Note)
INSTRUCTIONS
- In a blender combine the rum, strawberries, fresh-squeezed lime juice, and 1 cup ice.
- Pulse to evenly blend, then divide between glasses.
Recipe Notes
Depending upon how thick you want your frozen daiquiri, you can add as much or as little ice as desired. Start with 1 cup; then if you prefer it a little more slushy, add more ice, a half cup at a time, and pulse to blend to your desired consistency.
The Spotted Laternfly
Oh, my! Will we gardeners ever get a break? Over the past decades we have been at war with new pests that have found their way into the country and into our gardens. A few of the recent foreign invasive pests include: the tree-eating gypsy moths, the malodorous brown marmorated stink bug, the tree-killing emerald ash borer, and now the latest stowaway to bug gardeners is the potentially devastating spotted lanternfly (Lycoma delicatula).
This undeniably colorful four-winged insect is native to China, India, and Vietnam, and was introduced into South Korea in 2006; by 2009, it was found throughout the southern Korean Peninsula where it had become a major pest on grape and peach crops. How the spotted lanternfly arrived in the US is not clear, but like many recent invaders, this one is an excellent stowaway, and egg masses likely arrived on a shipments of goods from Asia. The spotted lanternfly was first detected in Berks County, Pennsylvania, in September 2014. Despite local quarantine efforts to limit the movement of materials, the lanternfly range has expanded to include 13 counties in southeastern Pennsylvania, and into the neighboring states of New Jersey, New York, and Delaware. It was identified near Winchester, Virginia, on January 10, 2018.
The spotted lanternfly is not a fly but an invasive planthopper. It belongs to a group of insects known as fulgorids, part of a large family of insects called the Hemiptera, a clan that includes other sap-feeding pests, including aphids, soft scales, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Like the aforementioned rogues, lanternflies pierce plants with soda-straw-like mouthparts, tap into vascular tissue (phloem), and remove sap. Both adults and the youngsters, called nymphs, remove large quantities of sap from the tree as they feed. Their excess intake is excreted from their rear end as a sugary waste product called honeydew.
Adult lanternflies can fly, but it may be their least mobile stage. It is their egg masses that have the greatest potential for long distance travel. Spotted lanternfly eggs are inconspicuous, and females will lay their eggs on virtually any surface — trees, firewood, lumber, yard furniture, and vehicles. Combine that with the fact that their preferred host, ailanthus (tree of heaven) is an invasive itself that tends to grow in disturbed areas around parking lots, along highways and railroad tracks.
It doesn’t require a huge imagination to envision a railroad car, stopped along an ailanthus-lined railroad track or a semi parked next to an ailanthus tree at a rest stop or an out-of-town vehicle next to an a tree at a football stadium. A gravid female lanternfly drops down, deposits her eggs and soon the eggs are driven away to the next county or across the country.
Why the Concern
While the spotted lanternfly (SLF) prefers the Tree of Heaven, Ailanthus altissima, for part of their life cycle, the insect feeds on a wide range of plants (more than 70 species) — including grapes, peaches, plums, apples, hops, dogwood, maples, sycamore, black gum, oak, sassafras, tulip poplar, serviceberry, walnut and pines, just to name a few found in our area.
Adult Lanternflies on grape vine. Photo Source: Penn State University.
The SLF can cause extensive crop and tree damage. Limp tree branches have been observed shortly after an infestation. In infested areas, the adult SLF gather in masses, covering tree trunks, patios, and the sides of houses. While they don’t bite, the SLF are attracted to and land on people, moving among them, making themselves a nuisance to be around.
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Spotted lanternfly aggregation on a backyard tree. Photo Source: Entomology Today
As the SLF sucks the phloem from trees and shrubs, it excretes large amounts of honeydew, a sticky sweet substance which attracts, wasps, ants, bees, and other insects drawn to the sweet substance. When walking under an infested tree canopy, the honeydew falls like rain.
To make maters worse, the honeydew is host to sooty mold, which colonizes on surfaces, where the honeydew has been excreted. These surfaces turn black as the mold colonies grow, rendering fruit such as grapes, apples, and peaches useless — not to mention the added ambiance this black gunk adds to a patio or deck below a tree infested with SLF.
Sooty mold, such as shown in this example at the base of a tree, results from a combination of sap flows caused by the spotted lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula) and honeydew excreted by the insect. (Photo credit: Lawrence Barringer, Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture, Bugwood.org).
The SLF is also prolific. In cold climates, the SLF has one life cycle per year, but can mate and lay egg masses several times, laying 30 to 50 eggs each time. The egg masses will be attached to any hard surface. Egg masses have been found on the bark of many tree species, and on rocks, motor vehicles, outdoor furniture, the sides of houses and more. In warmer climates south of the Mason- Dixon Line, the milder winters could give the bug year-round reproduction capability and reduce winter kill.
Natural Enemies
As is the case with most invasive pests, the SLF does not have an enemy in this country to help control its population. The brilliant colors–– red, black, and white — of the spotted lanternfly reveal one of the reasons why it is difficult to control by using natural enemies. Its hues are warning colors that alert predators to the fact that the lanternfly is toxic due to poisons called cytotoxic alkaloids, which it metabolizes from some of its host plants. While the coloration of the forewings helps camouflage the lanternfly against a tree trunk, the sudden flash of its vivid hind wings, when opened, startles predators and scares them away. Some birds have been seen vomiting after ingesting the insect. Although it is also toxic to humans, the lanternfly has been used in low quantities by practitioners of traditional Chinese medicine to treat consumption and swelling.
Identification
The soft-bodied spotted lanternfly (SLF) adult looks similar to a moth or butterfly. It is approximately 1” long and ½” wide at rest. The forewing is grey with black spots and the wing tips are reticulated black blocks outlined in grey. The hind wings have contrasting patches of red and black with a white band. The legs and head are black; the abdomen is yellow with broad black bands. Despite the large wings, the insect does not fly very well, but jumps from plant to plant or tree to tree.
Early nymph stage of SLF. Photo Source: USDA
Late nymph stage of SLF. Photo Source: USDA
Adult SLF with wings pinned open. Photo Source: USDA
Adult SLF at rest. Photo Source: USDA
Life Cycle
Eggs hatch in spring and early summer and then undergo four nymphal instars. Immature stages are black with white spots, but the nymphs turn red just before becoming adults in July. Adults begin laying eggs in September and continue through November until the onset of winter.
Newly-laid egg masses have a grey mud-like covering which can take on a dry, cracked appearance over time. Old egg masses appear as rows of 30-50 brownish seed-like deposits in 4 to 7 columns on the trunk, roughly an inch long.
Spotted Lanternfly Egg Mass. Photo Source: Penn State Extension
The Spotted Lanternfly Life Cycle in Virginia:
Source: “Spotted Lanternfly Life Cycle in Virginia” , VCE Publication-268 NP
Signs & Symptoms
As mentioned above, nymph and adult SLF typically gather in large numbers on host plants. They are easier to spot at dusk or night as they migrate up and down the trunk of the plant. Trees will develop weeping wounds that leave a greyish or black trail along the trunk. This sap will attract other insects to feed, notably wasps and ants. In late fall, you will be able to spot egg masses on host trees and nearby smooth surfaces like stone, outdoor furniture, vehicles, lawn mowers, and structures.
What needs to be done now
If you see a spotted lanternfly, please report it immediately to the local extension office or local agriculture department. Even a suspected sighting should be reported. Collect a specimen, if possible, and place it in a vial filled with alcohol, note the location, and drop it off at your local Virginia Cooperative Extension Office.
- Take a photograph of any spotted lanternfly at any life stage and submit to: https://ask.extension.org/groups/1981/ask
- Businesses should contact the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (VDACS) at 804-786-3515. Their business hours are Monday to Friday, 8 am to 5 pm.
- If traveling within Virginia and you observe the SLF at a rest stop for instance, you should contact VDACS. Please leave a message if after hours or on the weekend.
Current Control Measures
- Control Mechanically – Swatting or crushing is possible, however they are able to quickly jump away so this is not easy to achieve. You are most likely to see the adults feeding in late summer and fall.
- Search and Destroy the Invasive Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima) – It is believed that the SLF must feed on these trees at some point in their lifecycle. A good time to cut down these trees is during National Invasive Species Awareness Week, February 26 to March 2, 2018. Brush should be chipped or burned on site and not moved to another location if the SLF has been identified. Treat the stumps with an herbicide to prevent from growing back.
- Scrape Egg Masses – Egg masses are live and viable from about October through July. One can scrape them off of trees or smooth surfaces, double-bag them, and throw them in the garbage, or place the eggs in alcohol or hand sanitizer to destroy.
- Install Band Barrier Tree Wraps – Tree banding involves a sticky band that traps the insects.
- Use Insecticidal Soap – This is only effective in areas with low populations and has varying efficacy. To be effective, it should be applied regularly.
- Investigate Pesticide Options – There is limited information on pesticides because it is a new pest to this area. However, Penn State Extension researchers are conducting testing. Contact you local extension office or local certified pesticide company with a commercial license for more information.
The spotted lanternfly’s ability to overwinter, along with a wide range of host plants and lack of natural native enemies will in all probability result in a rapid population growth and spread of this destructive, invasive pest.
Thanks for stopping by The Garden Shed. We look forward to your visit next month.
Resources:
“Spotted Lanternfly in Virginia,” Virginia Cooperative Extension, https://ext.vt.edu/agriculture/commercial-horticulture/spotted-lanternfly.html
“Be Prepared for the Invasive Spotted Lanternfly, Entomologists Warn,” Entomology Today, December 17, 2017, https://entomologytoday.org/2015/12/17/be-prepared-for-spotted-lanternfly/
“A Decline in Stink Bugs,” Pest World, ELP.
HELP FIND THE SPOTTED LANTERNFLY, LYCORMA DELICATULA,”Bug of the Week, http://bugoftheweek.com/blog/2018/3/16/help-find-the-spotted-lanternfly-ilycorma-delicatulai
“Lycorma delicatula (Hemiptera: Fulgoridae): A New Invasive Pest in the United States” Journal of Integrated Pest Management, https://academic.oup.com/jipm/article/6/1/20/2936989
“Spotted Lanternfly,” Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication ENTO-264 NP https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/ENTO/ENTO-180/ENTO-180.html
“Tree-of Heaven or Paradise Tree,” Blue Ridge Partnership for Regional Invasive Species Management, http://blueridgeprism.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Ailanthus-Fact-Sheet-VDOF-5-30-17-w-vdof-Box-FINAL.pdf
“Update on Spotted Lanternfly Control Options,” Penn State Extension, https://extension.psu.edu/update-on-spotted-lanternfly-control-options
“USDA declares war on spotted lanternfly, will spend $17.5M,” The Morning Call, http://www.mcall.com/news/breaking/mc-nws-spotted-lanternfly-governor-budget-20180207-story.html
“Recently spotted lanternfly has potential for devastation,” The Daily Progress, http://www.dailyprogress.com/news/local/recently-spotted-lanternfly-has-potential-for-devastation/article_fa28d794-09ff-11e8-8dfc-735cd0b3fa81.html
“Spotted Lanternfly,” USDA, Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service, https://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant-pests-diseases/slf
“Spotted Lanternfly,” Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture, http://www.agriculture.pa.gov/plants_land_water/plantindustry/entomology/spotted_lanternfly/pages/default.aspx
“Spotted Lanternfly,” Pest Alert, USDA, https://www.aphis.usda.gov/publications/plant_health/2014/alert_spotted_lanternfly.pdf
“What to do if you find a Spotted Lanternfly,” Penn State Extension https://extension.psu.edu/what-to-do-if-you-find-spotted-lanternfly
“Government Affairs: Is the Spotted Lanternfly a Threat to Outdoor Living,” Landscape Management, http://landscapemanagement.net/government-affairs-is-the-spotted-lanternfly-a-threat-to-outdoor-living/
In The Vegetable Garden – June
WOW, what a spring we had in central Virginia. In April we had very little rain, and, well, the month of May just made up for it with a deludge of rainfall. Naturally, a lot of planned planting got pushed out to June. And guess what, June is already a busy month in the vegetable garden — there’s planting, weeding, mulching, harvesting, looking for that little extra space to plunk in that one more pepper or tomato plant. Did I say anything about weeding?
But let’s start with planting. June is a good month for planting beans and squash and plenty of other vegetables. Take a look at the handy-dandy chart below, which was developed using the Cooperative Extension Publication 426-331 , “Vegetable Planting Guide and Recommended Planting Dates.”
| June 1-6 | June 7-13 | |
| Bush Beans | Bush Beans | |
| Pole Beans | Pole Beans | |
| Lima beans | Lima beans | |
| Wax Beans | Wax Beans | |
| Cucumbers | Cucumbers | |
| Egg Plant* | Egg Plant* | |
| Muskmelons | Muskmelons | |
| Okra | Okra | |
| Peppers | Peppers | |
| Pumpkins | Pumpkins | |
| Southern Peas | Southern Peas | |
| Sweet Corn | Sweet Corn | |
| Summer Squash | Summer Squash | |
| Winter Squash | Winter Squash | |
| Sweet Potato | Sweet Potato | |
| Tomatoes* | Tomatoes* | |
| Watermellow | Watermellow | |
| June 14-20 | June 21-30 | |
| Bush Beans | Bush Beans | |
| Pole Beans | Pole Beans | |
| Lima beans | Lima beans | |
| Wax Beans | Wax Beans | |
| Cucumbers | Cucumbers | |
| Egg Plant* | Egg Plant* | |
| Muskmelons | Okra | |
| Okra | Peppers | |
| Peppers | Pumpkins | |
| Pumpkins | Southern Peas | |
| Southern Peas | Sweet Corn | |
| Sweet Corn | Summer Squash | |
| Summer Squash | Winter Squash | |
| Winter Squash | Tomatoes* | |
| Tomatoes* | ||
| Watermellow | ||
| * Denotes Transplants | ||
| The suggested dates may vary for different areas. | ||
June Tasks
Thin the seedlings of carrots and beets to proper spacing, about 4-5 inches to avoid crowding.
Apply organic mulches such as leaves, straw and clean grass to conserve water, suppress weed germination, and enrich soil as the mulch decays.
Repeat plantings of corn and beans to extend the harvest season.
Monitor soil moisture. As a general rule, vegetables require about an inch of water per week during the growing season. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation make the most efficient use of water during dry spells.
Asparagus –– stop harvesting when spears become thin.
Growing lettuce under a shade screening material will slow bolting and extend the harvest season. Also, try planting bolt-resistant varieties such as Muir, Sierra and Nevada.
Sow new warm-season vegetable seeds after harvesting cool weather crops.
Continue to mound soil up around the potatoes to prevent them from being exposed to the sun and turning green. You can also add a layer of straw or leaf mulch to help control weeds.
Some soils in our area are magnesium deficient, especially those where high-calcium lime has been applied rather than lime containing magnesium (dolomite). “Green” your peppers by giving them a magnesium boost with Epsom salts. This will aid fruit production. Dilute one tablespoon of Epsom salts in a quart of water. Spray the solution on leaves, using a clean household spray bottle. You will notice a difference in the color of the leaves in couple of days.
Tips:
Herbs planted in average soil need no fertilizer. Too much fertilizer may reduce flavor and pungency.
To control earworms on corn plants: apply several drops of mineral oil to the corn silk.
Thin overloaded fruit trees; this will result in larger and better fruit at harvest time.
You may have noticed that your strawberries have a milder favor than normal this year. The problem could be the result of the excessive rainfall we had in May; it could have diluted the flavor of the berries. That heavy rain increased the risk of fungal problems, too. I am experiencing higher than normal loss due to fungal diseases because of the wet weather.
Renovate the strawberry patch after harvest. Mow the rows, thin out excess plants and apply mulch for weed control.
The best time to harvest most herbs is just before flowering, when the leaves contain the maxium essential oils. Cut herbs early on a sunny day.
Sources:
Adapted from the Albemarle/Charlottesville VCE Office, “Monthy Horticulture Tip Sheets,” albemarle.ext.vt.edu/hort-tip-sheets/6-14-veg.pdf ; albemarle.ext.vt.eduhort-tip-sheets/6-14-fruit-nuts.pdf; albemarle.ext.vt.eduhort-tip-sheets/6-14-herbs.pdf