The Garden Shed
A Community Newsletter published by the Piedmont Master Gardeners
February 2019-Vol.5 No.2
For comments, questions or suggested topics for future Garden Shed articles contact us at: garden-shed@piedmontmastergardeners.org.
If you have specific gardening questions or need help to solve a gardening problem, our Horticultural Help Desk is a free community resource and can be contacted at 434-872-4583 or by email: albemarlevcehelpdesk@gmail.com.
Who We Are
We are members of the Piedmont Master Gardeners, which simply means we have all been trained to share the scientific expertise of Virginia Tech and the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service. More important, we are your friends and neighbors with a passion for gardening – and learning more about it. MORE
Table of Contents
In the Ornamental Garden
Creating a Bird-Friendly Garden
Native plants attract insects and provide year-round food and cover.
Tasks and Tips
Learning from Marie Kondo: Tidying Magic for Gardeners
"Tidying" can bring more joy to gardening.
In the Edible Garden
Minimum Till Cultivation: What? Don’t Turn over the Garden Soil?
Adopt minimum tillage cultivation practices to build healthy, productive soils the natural way.
Upcoming Events
Coming Soon: Garden Basics Classes & Spring Lecture Series
Learn about Soil, Mulch & Compost or Growing a Better Lawn
Creating a Bird-Friendly Garden
My interest in writing this article started with a discussion with my husband over a decade ago about who should clean the bird feeder. Actually, the original argument was not about who should clean the feeder, but WHY anyone should need to clean the bird feeder. I had read an article from a now unremembered source warning that cleaning a bird feeder on a regular basis was necessary to prevent the spread of disease. The picture I imagined was of people gathered around an office water cooler sharing a communal cup, even during flu season. “We” decided to each take responsibility for cleaning the feeder, with a lot of dire warnings from me about what would happen if only one of us followed through. I’ll let you come to your own conclusion about the outcome.
BIRD FEEDER STUDY IN GREAT BRITAIN
More recently, I discovered a report released by the Zoological Society of London based on 25 years of data showing that bird feeders can promote the transfer of diseases between birds by “encouraging birds to repeatedly congregate in the same location, often bringing them into regular contact with other species they wouldn’t otherwise interact with so closely in the wider environment. Risks can be increased if hygiene at feeding stations is poor, allowing stale food, food waste, and droppings to accumulate.” The data was analyzed for diseases caused by bacteria, viruses and parasites.
The study doesn’t suggest that people have to throw away their bird feeders. In fact, that would be a tall order since an estimated 48% of households in Great Britain provide supplemental bird food. The report calls on all who feed wild birds to be aware of their responsibilities for preventing disease. Simple steps include:
- offering a variety of food from accredited sources
- feeding in moderation, so that feeders are typically emptied every 1-2 days
- regular cleaning of bird feeders
- rotation of feeding sites to avoid accumulation of waste food or bird droppings
After reading these warnings, I can’t help but wonder how many bird lovers actually follow these recommendations. I am reminded of a neighbor many years ago who faithfully filled a plexiglass bird feeder that was about 36” long and 6” in diameter. I would bet many bags of black sunflower seeds that despite my neighbor’s very generous investment of time and money to keep the feeder filled, it was never cleaned.
CLEANING BIRD FEEDERS
According to Cornell’s Project FeederWatch, bird feeders should be cleaned once every two weeks. Take the feeder apart and remove any visible debris. Then, soak the feeder for 10 minutes in a diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water), or soak for one hour in a weak vinegar solution (1 part white vinegar to 4 parts water) and then scrub with a clean bottle brush. Rinse thoroughly and let dry completely before refilling with seed.
A BETTER VISION
Instead of a yard full of sparkling clean plexiglass bird feeders and a vision of colorful birds chirping in gratitude, a better goal is to create a yard that will attract birds through natural food sources. Does this mean replacing sacks of premixed bird seed with an equivalent array of bird food from seed-producing plants? It is good to leave the seed heads of plants to provide food over the winter. Likewise, berry-producing shrubs and trees are important food sources. However, the most important food source for terrestrial birds is insects.
NATIVE PLANTS AND INSECTS
According to Doug Tallamy in his book, Bringing Nature Home, 96% of the terrestrial birds in North America rely on insects and other arthropods (typically, the spiders that eat insects), to feed their young. Tallamy is known for his work in studying the food web interaction among native plants, insects, and wildlife. Up to 90% of all phytophagous (plant-eating) insects are considered specialists because they have evolved in concert with only a few plant lineages. Insect species eat plants with which they have a long evolutionary history. Therefore, if we want to provide birds with their main food source of insects, then we need to provide the native plants that feed these insects.
In addition to improving wildlife habitat, a garden of native plants is well-adapted to local weather and soil conditions. They require little or no fertilizer and are relatively low maintenance.
If this subject is of interest to you, please take time to refer to the National Wildlife Federation’s Native Plant Finder website which is based on the work of Doug Tallamy and provides a listing, according to ZIP code, of native plants, grasses, trees, and shrubs and the number of insects supported by each. It’s amazing.
CREATING A BIRD-FRIENDLY YARD
American Robin eating holly berries Photo: Andy Reago and Chrissy McClarren
Plants provide food, but they also offer shelter, nesting sites, and protection from predators. A multi-leveled planting design is recommended to satisfy each bird species’ elevation preference for feeding, roosting, and nesting.
To design a multilevel bird-friendly landscape:
- Plant tall canopy trees such as oaks (Quercus), elms (Ulmas spp.), and tulip trees (Liriodendron tulipifera).
- Underplant with shorter, more shade-tolerant trees, such as flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) and serviceberry (Amelanchier).
- Plant lower-growing, berry-laden shrubs, such as high bush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), winterberry (Ilex verticillata), and chokeberry (Aronia).
- At the lowest level, add groundcovers that provide berries and cover such as creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis ‘Emerald Spreader’), and partridge berry (Mitchella repens). Or, choose groundcovers that provide cover such as barrenwort (Epimedium), wild ginger (Asarum canandense) and sedge (Carex spp).
- In a sunny location with room for plants to expand, plant native grasses to provide seed and some cover from predators. Options include little blue stem (Schizachyrium scoparum), big blue stem (Andropogon gerardii), river oats (Chasmanthium latifolum), and switchgrass (Panicum virgatum). For more information on ornamental grasses, see The Garden Shed, Nov. 2017.
- Consider native vines that are attractive to birds and to insects such as: crossvine (Bignonia capreolata) attracts hummingbirds; wild passion flower (Passiflora incarnata); and Dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia tomentosa), the larval host plant for pipe vine swallowtail butterfly.
- Break up broad expanses of lawn with island plantings of trees, shrubs, and ground covers.
BLOOM SUCCESSION
Plant native perennials so that bloom periods stretch from beginning to end of season. An example in bloom order of perennial selections that would offer a succession of blooms from spring through late fall includes: wild bleeding heart (Dicentra eximia), wild geranium (Geranium maculatum), penstemon (Penstemon digitalis), tickseed (Coreopsis spp.), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), orange cone flower (Rudbeckia fulgida), sunflower (Helianthus spp.), goldenrod (Solidago spp), and aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium).
You may also refer to a very helpful guide provided by the Virginia Cooperative Extension publication, “For the Birds, Butterflies and Hummingbirds: Creating an Inviting Habitat.” The chart highlights the types of birds that benefit from specific native plants and the time of bloom.
A DRINK FOR THE THIRSTY
Blue Jays in Bird Bath Photo: Mike’s Birds
Birds require a consistent supply of fresh water for drinking and bathing. Consider bird safety when locating the birdbath. Although some birds prefer baths at ground level, a pedestal birdbath provides some protection from cats. For added protection, locate the bath out in the open, at least 10′ from predator cover such as a hedges or shrubs. The preferred bird bath gradually inclines to a depth of no more than 2-3″ at the deepest point. The surface should be slightly textured to provide sure footing. Just as with bird feeders, it is important to keep bird baths clean and to supply fresh water.
FINDING NATURAL FOOD IN WINTER
Common bird species that do not migrate, such as northern cardinals, woodpeckers and mockingbirds, depend in winter on berry-producing shrubs. Although the berries are produced earlier in the year, many are left on the plant into winter when other more favored food sources are spent. Consider choosing native berry-producing trees and shrubs based on the Native Plant Finder cited above:
- Arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)
- Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana ‘Schubert’); susceptible to pests, weak limbs in snow
- Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana)
- American black elderberry (Sambucus canendensis); spreads through suckers
- Red elderberry (Sambucus racemose); spreads through suckers
- Fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica)
- Inkberry (Ilex glabra); spreads through suckers
- Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)
- Winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata)
SUMMARY
Insects are the primary food source for terrestrial birds, and insect species eat plants with which they have a long evolutionary history. Therefore, a selection of native plants creates the most bird-friendly environment. Growing diverse plants that fruit at different times of the year helps to provide a continuous supply of food year-round. For those who choose to feed birds, research has shown that keeping bird feeders clean, providing fresh seed, cleaning up around the feeding area, and offering clean water are all essential steps for keeping birds healthy.
SOURCES
Landscaping for Winter Birds, The National Garden Association, https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/764/
Landscaping with Birds in Mind, The National Gardening Association, https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/190/
“Feed the birds? Scientists highlight risks of disease at garden bird feeders,” https://www.zsl.org/science/news/feed-the-birds-scientists-highlight-risks-of-disease-at-garden-bird-feeders
“Health hazards to wild birds and risk factors associated with anthropogenic food provisioning,” https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/full/10.1098/rstb.2017.0091
Native Plant Finder, https://www.nwf.org/NativePlantFinder/Plants/2732
“For the Birds, Butterflies and Hummingbirds: Creating Inviting Habitats,” VCE, https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/HORT/HORT-59/HORT-59-PDF.pdf
“Why planting a garden is better for bird-watching than filling a feeder,” Mother Nature Network, https://www.mnn.com/earth-matters/animals/blogs/why-planting-garden-better-bird-watching-filling-feeder
“10 Plants for a Bird-Friendly Yard,” https://www.audubon.org/news/10-plants-bird-friendly-yard
“How to Plant Your Yard to Attract Songbirds,” Audubon Society of Northern Virginia, http://audubonva.org/new-page-3
“Virginia Natives for Attracting Birds,” http://www.virginia.edu/blandy/blandy_web/arboretum/virginia_natives_for_birds.pdf
“Ornamental Grasses: easy, beautiful and — invasive?” http://pmgarchives.com/article/ornamental-grasses-easy-beautiful-and-invasive/
Learning from Marie Kondo: Tidying Magic for Gardeners
A couple of years ago after reading The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up by Marie Kondo, I went through my possessions and tried to “feel” how much they mattered to my well-being. When handling each object, I asked the question, “Does it bring me joy?” In addition to creating a more orderly environment, this sorting process offers a different perspective for evaluating new purchases. Which items “deserve” a spot among my orderly belongings? After experiencing such success with my household belongings, I wondered how else this method could be applied. For example, if we tackle organizing our gardening-related possessions according to the Marie Kondo method, will we be better gardeners this spring?
A QUICK SYNOPSIS OF “TIDYING UP”
The Kondo book has now been made into a Netflix television series starring Kondo herself as mentor. I really do recommend reading the book or watching the show, but some general principles can be introduced and applied right now. Divide your possessions into categories. Put all of one category together and sort through the items in one session. Pick up each object and ask yourself if it still brings you joy. Make selections based on what you want to keep, not on what you want to throw away. Live in the now. Be willing to let go of things that were useful in a former period but no longer contribute positively. Don’t think of these possessions as cast off; thank them for their service and allow them to move on to another useful phase somewhere else. Don’t put things back until the sorting and selection process is completed. Keep your chosen possessions within sight and within reach.
GARDENING POSSESSIONS
There are many categories for gardeners to consider: pots, garden tools, chemicals such as pesticides and herbicides, books, seminar and meeting notes, clothing, garden decorative items, floral prints, and plants.
POTS
As most gardeners realize, black plastic pots in all sizes somehow mysteriously self-procreate. Unfortunately, the more expensive concrete or glazed ceramic pots do not. Gather all your pots together and divide by type of materials. Decide which ones you are excited about using in the coming season. Keep just enough of the plastic pots for repotting divided plants from your garden. Check the recycling symbols. Many curbside recycling services won’t accept plant pots. The Ivy Materials Utilization Center (Ivy MUC) and the McIntire Recycling Center accept plastics #1–7, although #1–2 are recycled most efficiently. Lowes accepts plastic pots and plastic labels for recycling. These items can be dropped off at the garden center. Clay pots cannot be recycled but they can be repurposed. Many suggestions can be found online. Alternatively, consider donating extra clay pots and saucers to Goodwill, the SPCA thrift shop, or another charity-run store.
GARDEN TOOLS
Small tools Photo: Susan Martin
Lay your garden tools on the garage floor or in another suitable space. Group items into categories. Don’t save things that you intend to fix or sharpen “someday.” Keep the things you use. Make sure they’re clean and ready for next season. Get rid of multiples unless you actually use them. If you bought a second tool because the first needed replacing, don’t hang on to the original.
CHEMICALS
Gather chemicals in a pile and sort according to category: herbicide, pesticide, fungicide, oil and gas for power tools and mowers. Anything you don’t intend to use should be set aside for disposal at a hazardous waste collection site. The next Household Hazardous Waste Collection will be held from 9 AM to 2 PM at the Ivy Materials Utilization Center on Friday, April 26, and Saturday, April 27.
BOOKS
Books can have sentimental value, but try to be objective. If you’re now concentrating on native plants, for example, consider whether your current books address natives. Perhaps you no longer have a vegetable garden, or no longer grow roses. Gardening books can be lovely to look at, but if you don’t really look at them—be honest about this—pass them on.
NOTES FROM SEMINARS AND EDUCATIONAL MEETINGS
Most of what we learn at educational events can be researched online. Attending educational events, however, is very useful and pleasurable. These events introduce us to new information and enable us to ask questions, exchange information with other attendees, and visit vendors. Note-taking also helps us to retain information. I discard most notes after the event and continue researching the topic online.
CLOTHING
Gardening clothes can be difficult for me to sort. I only garden in clothes that I don’t mind ruining. This seems to run counter to the “joy meter.” For me, practicality takes precedence on this one. I just need to pare down to the essentials. Clothes that show wear can be relegated to the garden group. Each season, consider throwing out the old and bringing in the “new-old.” Sparingly. I keep gardening clothes in their own spot and this space limitation helps keep things in control. I imagine the sorting process is easier for those who invest in good-quality clothes specific to gardening.
DECORATIVE ITEMS
Lawn flamingoes. Photo: Arygyriou, Wikimedia Commons
Now we can get back to the joy meter. Collect the decorative items you like to use in your garden. Put them in a pile. This pile will be a lot bigger for some gardeners than for others. First, inspect for wear-and-tear. Discard the items that are no longer attractive. Are there things you’ve been intending to spruce up with a coat of paint or some glue? If you’re excited about seeing it in this year’s garden, you’ll fix it. But if there’s no excitement factor, pass it on. Someone else will be excited about adding it to his or her garden. In fact, the Piedmont Master Gardeners would welcome your no-longer-needed garden items for the Green Elephant section of its Annual Plant Sale on May 4. See instructions on how to donate in the Upcoming Events section of this newsletter.
FLORAL PRINTS
Gardeners tend to collect floral prints. We can’t help it. Many of us have a collection of prints, framed or unframed, that we intend to hang “someday.” Be kind. Set them free. Let them hang on someone else’s wall.
PLANTS
February is a good time to assess our houseplants. Which ones bring us joy, and which are relying on caretaker guilt? Getting rid of unwanted plants is much harder for some people than others. It can even be stressful. However, caring for plants requires time and energy; we should invest our time and energy in plants that continue to give us pleasure. Perhaps a friend will be interested in a particular plant. Another good option is to donate houseplants to a charity-run store.
Although more difficult in February without a garden visual, we can still review our plantings. Do we have too much of a particular type of plant? Is a plant not doing well in a specific location? Should it be moved, or is there no suitable spot in our landscape? Do we simply want to experiment with something new? Do we need to devote more space to native plants? Make notes now and have a plan ready for spring. Keep the plants that add to your love of gardening. Give no-longer-needed plants to friends or add plants to the compost pile.
SUMMARY
Although it can seem difficult to pare down our possessions, it’s actually a “freeing” experience. We have more space to see and appreciate what we have. We are also left with the items that truly bring us joy. The process allows us to experience a simpler, more focused environment. It can also help us more thoughtfully evaluate which new items we want to invite into both our indoor space and our gardens.
Minimum Till Cultivation: What? Don’t Turn over the Garden Soil?
I remember, as a boy, what a big event it was every spring when we all grabbed shovels and “turned over” the soil to prepare the vegetable garden for the coming growing season. There was something really satisfying about digging deeply into the garden soil, burying the weeds, breaking up the clods and smoothing the surface. And, honestly, it is hard to give that thinking up. But current wisdom says that this isn’t the best way to build soil or improve garden production.
The change in thinking started in commercial agriculture as several related problems with 20th century farming practices became evident:
- Reliance on synthetic fertilizers, rather than following nature’s practice of regularly adding organic matter to the soil, was actually depleting soil health
- The loss of organic matter, and addition of chemical fertilizers reduced pathogen-controlling soil organisms, forcing dependence on chemical pesticides
- Deep tilling speeded up the reduction of organic matter and soil organisms, released soil-sequestered carbon into the atmosphere and destroyed soil structure by pulverizing it
- Exposing bare soil to the elements during winters and fallow periods caused erosion and nutrient leaching that further depleted soils and polluted streams and natural drainage systems.
This recognition has led to the evolving practice of “minimum tillage cultivation” — a practice that is often referred to as no till. This has come to mean keeping “live” roots in the soil year-round by utilizing cover crops over winter and during fallow periods, using their roots to improve soil structure and in some cases “fix” nitrogen in the soil, while reducing erosion, nutrient loss and related pollution. The green parts of the crops become mulches or soil amendments, to build valuable organic matter levels. Allied with this, instead of tilling soil deeply and turning it over, tilling is minimized. By using different shallow tillage tools and techniques, natural amendments are added to the top few inches of soil by loosening rather than inverting it. Meanwhile, a healthy community of organisms in the top layer carry organic nutrients to and improve the texture and structure of deeper layers.
Erosion and nutrient leaching of unprotected soil Photo: IITA Image Library
A Leap of Faith
Really? It’s easy to understand the negative aspects of leaving soils unprotected. Ditto with the alliance between cover cropping and using organic matter as the key soil amendment rather than relying on synthetic chemicals for nutrients and pest control. But abandoning deep tilling is harder to accept. What about compaction? Doesn’t looser soil allow deeper root growth? Apparently not. Many research trials over the past twenty years indicate that the benefits of regularly-added organic matter, roots in the soil, and a healthy population of soil organisms can equal or surpass conventional production levels, while reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.
History and Evolution of No Till
There has been growing recognition of the problems of deep cultivation, chemical additives and fallow fields for 100 years. Certainly the depression era dustbowl provides a vivid example. Unfortunately the growing dependence on these methods, related production increases and corporate influences have trumped concerns about soil depletion and environmental damage. By the late 20th century, experiments with cover cropping and light tilling were showing encouraging results. The main concern of commercial growers had to do with weed control during the germination and early growing stages when competition does the most harm to crop growth. The first solution was the use of glyphosate to kill the cover crop. The dead matter was then left on the soil surface as a mulch to stifle weed growth, using shallow till cultivation tools, like chisel plows, to cut narrow furrows for transplant insertion or seed drill operation.
Mowing cover crop in preparation for planting
Photo: slideplayer.com
Happily, in recent years, more organic methods have been developed and proven to be effective. The next advance was to flail mow the above ground portion of the cover crop, chopping it into small pieces and using it as a mulch. A more recent advance is to use a roller crimper on the back of a tractor to kill the cover crop plants while laying the green portion down more or less linearly on top of the soil. This orderly arrangement makes establishing rows for planting between stalks more convenient.
Roller crimper on cover crop
Photo: NRCS Oregon
The no-till technique has been and continues to be tested in the US and many countries around the world. The results are very encouraging in terms of maintaining or increasing crop yields while reducing chemical use, pest problems and erosion/pollution issues. There is often a 2 or 3 year ramp up of crop production to reach or surpass prior levels, but the long term success of the practice seems clear. Smaller organic growers and the related agro-ecology movement are the main drivers of the practice. Big farms, with a large investment in the mechanized practices and heavy dependence on chemicals face bigger obstacles to changing. The good news for home gardeners is that there are techniques that are practical and economical to aid our transition.
Minimum Tillage Techniques for Backyard Gardens
Cover crops in raised beds Photo: westcoastnotebook.com
As noted, minimum tillage has evolved to encompass the practices of not only minimum disruption of soil structure, but also cover cropping and incorporation of organic matter into the upper soil levels. While the Cooperative Extension focuses mostly on commercial agriculture, there is a wealth of consistent information available from committed organic market gardeners, small plot farmers and supporting organizations. You’ll find detailed information to help you choose and get started with cover cropping in “Cover Crops” The Garden Shed, Sept. 2015 and “Forage Radishes — a hard-working cover crop, The Garden Shed, Aug. 2017.
It makes sense to start with cover crops because their nature and hardiness affects spring planting requirements:
- Winter kill cover crops germinate and grow in fall and are killed by frost, leaving a mat of dead vegetation that becomes a mulch that protects soil from temperature variation and erosion through winter. Legume crops like field peas fix soil nitrogen prior to dying. Forage radishes, with a strong tap root are good for building soil structure. Oats are another popular choice that provide a nice mat.
- Over-wintering crops will continue to grow until spring planting requires action to deal with their vegetation:
- If the crop is relatively immature and small, it can be incorporated directly into the soil. It should be allowed to decompose for at least 3-4 weeks prior to planting.
- Taller crops should be cut:
- If you want to leave intact stalks on the soil surface as a mulch, as some commercial growers do, a scythe can be used to cut them in an orderly way and lay them out along your eventual planting rows. They will be easy to separate for seeding or transplanting.
The alternative is to mow or weed-whack them, chopping the material up. It can then be used as a mulch, composted or worked into the upper 4-6 inches of the soil and allowed to decompose prior to planting.
Minimum Tilling options:
- If immature cover crop greens are directly incorporated into the soil, let them age for 3-4 weeks and simply smooth the soil surface for planting. Mature compost can also be added to the top 4-6 inches of soil at this time.
- If you cut your cover crop and leave the plant base in the soil, there are a couple of options:
- Chop the roots manually and mix them into the top few inches, smoothing the planting surface and leaving some decomposition time prior to planting.
Stirrup hoe cutting vegetation from roots
Photo: A Local Folkus
-
- Or, for a less invasive practice, use a stirrup hoe to cut the roots an inch or so below the soil surface, collecting and composting the cut residue. The surface can then be smoothed and planted.
Aerating and reducing compaction:
Even faithfully following minimum till methods doesn’t completely avoid soil compaction over time, especially if equipment is driven over the garden. A good method for loosening naturally-maintained soils with minimum disruption to soil structure, at least in small gardens, is with a broadfork. Insert the fork into the soil as deeply as possible and gently rock it back and forth. Do this every few inches in the garden to loosen and aerate the garden soil while leaving structure relatively intact.
Using a broadfork to loosen and aerate. Photo: pinterest.com
Feed the Soil Not the Plants
Once the planting surface is prepared, whichever tilling practice is followed, be as organic as possible during the growing season. Use organic matter and organic fertilizers to amend your soil, feed soil organisms and minimize your need for synthetic additives and pesticides. Mulch around plants and between rows to protect soil during the growing season and add organic matter as it breaks down. Rotate crops and interplant to encourage bio-diversity.
Practices are Evolving but the Principle is Clear
Exposing bare soil to the elements for long periods, deep tilling, reliance on chemicals to feed plants and kill pests is not the best long term approach to maintaining productive soils. Protecting the soil surface, maintaining soil structure, regularly adding organic matter and building a diverse population of soil organisms to release nutrients to plants is a more natural and superior long term approach.
Specific techniques and available equipment used to achieve this conversion will undoubtedly continue to develop and improve. But the concepts are pretty simple and are within the capability of most gardeners. Let’s join the movement and be part of the solution, rather than the problem.
Sources:
Teaming with Microbes, Lowenfels and Lewis (Timber Press, rev.ed. 2010).
“Environmental Horticulture: Guide to Nutrient Management,” Va.Coop.Ext. Pub. No.426-613
“Managing Soil Health: Concepts and Practices,” Pa.State Ext.
“Managing Cover Crops in Conservation Tillage Systems,” Sustainable Agriculture Research&Education, sare.org
“HOW TO: No-Till spring bed prep,” The Urban Farmer, www.youtube.com/
Coming Soon: Garden Basics Classes & Spring Lecture Series
Saturday, February 16 → Garden Basics Class: Soil, Mulch and Compost
February 16, 2019 @ 2:00 pm – 4:00 pm
Trinity Episcopal Church, 1118 Preston Avenue
Charlottesville, 22903
A successful garden begins with healthy soil. Learn how soil works and how to make yours work better.
Saturday, March 16 → Garden Basics Class: Growing a Better Lawn
Seed, fertilize, water and mow correctly to make your lawn green in every way.
March 16, 2019 @ 2:00 pm – 4:00 pm
Trinity Episcopal Church, 1118 Preston Avenue
Charlottesville, 22903
Prevent common pests and diseases and treat them safely and effectively when they arrive.
2019 Piedmont Master Gardeners Spring Lecture Series
DATES: March 14, March 21, March 28, and April 4
TIME: 7:000 – 8:00 p.m.
LOCATION: Albemarle County Office Building, 5th Street Extended, just off I-64, Charlottesville, VA
SCHEDULE of Lectures:
* Thursday, March 14 – Alex Niemiera, Virginia Tech School of Plant and Environmental Sciences presents “Gems in the Garden: Tree Characteristics that Add Grace to Your Landscape.”
* Thursday, March 21 – Janet Davis, Hill House Farm and Nursery presents “Native Plants for Harmonious Gardens.”
* Thursday, March 28 – Adria Bordas, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Fairfax County presents “Tips for Keeping Your Vegetable Garden Pest and Pesticide Free.”
· Thursday, April 4 – Steve and Karen McCurdy, Butterfly Society of Virginia present “The Mysteries of the Marvelous Monarch.”
RESERVATIONS: online at pmgarchives.com beginning February 14th or purchase at the door. Proceeds fund over 20 educational and service programs that Piedmont Master Gardeners provide for our community in partnership with Virginia Cooperative Extension.
Saturday, May 4 → Piedmont Master Gardeners and Charlottesville Area Tree Stewards will hold their Annual Plant Sale from 10:00 am — 2:00 pm at its . . .
NEW LOCATION! Look for the tent at The Shops at Stonefield, 2100 Hydraulic Road.
Mark your calendar now — and be sure to note the new location!
The Green Elephant section of the sale has been growing in size and popularity over the last few years. Consider donating your clean, no-longer-needed garden items: decorative pots (no floral vases), garden books (no magazines), floral prints, tools in good shape and outdoor decorative garden items (including gnomes and flamingos!) are all appreciated. Contact lilibetcoe@comcast.net about where and when to drop off donated items.