The Garden Shed
A Community Newsletter published by the Piedmont Master Gardeners
August 2016-Vol.2 No.8
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Table of Contents
Recipe of the Month
Two Garden Vegetable Soups, Chilled
Cool off with the "liquid salad" of Andalusia!
Buckwheat
A few summers ago, my wife casually mentioned that she needed a bag of buckwheat. “No problem,” I responded. ” I’ll pick up a bag the next time I’m in the grocery store.” I figured she must have been reading my mind as I had just hours before been thinking that it had been too long since I had sat down in front of a stack of buckwheat pancakes smothered in warm maple syrup. Needless to say, the conversation went downhill after I mentioned my pent up hunger for buckwheat pancakes. She curtly informed me that she wasn’t talking about buckwheat flour to make pancakes but buckwheat seeds to be used to plant in the garden to fill in some bare spots. Well, that stack of pancakes evaporated right before my eyes. I came to the conclusion that this buckwheat journey she had in mind was going to be a garden journey not a culinary breakfast journey. I was about to find out the benefits of growing buckwheat in the garden as a summer cover crop.
As it turns out buckwheat (Fagopyrum sagittatum) has been grown in America since colonial days, and the crop once was common on farms in the northeastern and north central United States. A couple of farmers whose names you may recognize, George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, corresponded with each other about the benefits of growing buckwheat.
Unlike many cover crops, buckwheat is a broadleaf-non-leguminous, frost-sensitive plant that is ideal for growing in the summer. It can be planted between corn rows or after spring crops (such as lettuce, peas and potatoes) have been removed from the garden or it may be interplanted with other vegetables like winter squash.
Buckwheat has a number of admirable attributes: it is not picky about its environment, it doesn’t require a lot of water, and it tolerates poor soil fertility and acid soils (low pH down to around 5.0) . However, buckwheat does NOT like shade or saturated soils. Buckwheat is a fast germinator (4-5 days) and can reach a full mature size of 2-3 feet within 5-6 weeks. This rapid growth turns buckwheat into a weed suppressor because it forms a shade covering that impairs the growth of weeds. For this reason it is often referred to as a “Smother Crop.”
In addition to smothering out weeds, buckwheat will do all kinds of good things for your soil: it will protect the soil surface from wind and water erosion, improve the general physical condition (tilth) of the soil, improve soil aeration and structure, promote microbial growth, help retain soil moisture and reduce soil crusting.
Buckwheat also captures nutrients — particularly phosphorus and calcium — from the soil that could otherwise be lost from leaching out. The captured nutrients are then released to later crops as the buckwheat residue breaks down. The roots of the plants produce mild acids that activate slow-releasing organic fertilizers, such as rock phosphate. Buckwheat’s dense fibrous root cluster in the top 10 inches of the soil also prevents erosion and nutrient loss by slowing water runoff from bare soil.
The white flower clusters of buckwheat are very attractive to insects. An article published by the Virginia Cooperative Extension Office suggests that buckwheat is the ultimate insectary plant. (For more information on the insectary concept, see The Garden Shed article titled “Insectary?”). Buckwheat attracts a host of beneficial insects and pollinators that include: parasitic wasps, minute pirate bugs, hover flies (syrphid flies), native bees and honey bees.
Research underway at the USDA suggests that buckwheat also attracts a small fly (Trichopoda pennipes) that is a parasitoid of stink bugs. That alone is a benefit that makes buckwheat an outstanding cover crop option!
Buckwheat can be planted anytime after the last spring frost (May 15th) and right up until late summer (until about 60 days before the first killing frost — October 15). To plant buckwheat, broadcast a cup of seed over 100 square feet (or 1 pound per 300 to 500 square feet; or 70 to 100 pounds per acre) and rake it in at a depth of 0.5 to 1.5 inches. It will sprout, grow and begin to bloom within six to seven weeks.
If you are only growing one crop, the buckwheat plants should be cut down within 10 days after the plant begins to bloom, to prevent the plants from reseeding and becoming a weed. However, if you are planning a sequential planting or using the buckwheat crop to attract beneficial insects, the plants should be allowed to bloom for at least 20 days, the time needed for the beneficial insects to produce a new generation.
The major pest that afflicts buckwheat is deer, so you may want to protect your crop by fencing in the area, or you can occasionally spray your buckwheat with a deer repellent.
Buckwheat is one of the easiest cover crops to grow, and is one of the best for preventing depletion of soil nutrients and for adding organic matter to the soil. Buckwheat has the additional value of attracting beneficial insects. To say the least, I am hooked on buckwheat!
Thanks for stopping by The Garden Shed. We hope to see you again next month!
Sources:
“Buckwheat Cover Crop Handbook,” Cornell University, http://www.hort.cornell.edu/bjorkman/lab/buck/handbook/intro.php
“Buckwheat,” United States Department of Agricultural (USDA) Plant Guide, https://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/pg_faes2.pdf
“Buckwheat: A Multi-Purpose, Short-Season Alternative,”University of Missouri Extension, Publication No. G4306, http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G4306
“Improving Pest Management with Farmscaping,” Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication ENTO-52NP, http://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/ENTO/ENTO-52/ENTO-52.html
“Crop Rotation and Soil Tilth,” Sustainable Agriculture Research & Education (SARE), http://www.sare.org/Learning-Center/Books/Crop-Rotation-on-Organic-Farms/Text-Version/Physical-and-Biological-Processes-In-Crop-Production/Crop-Rotation-and-Soil-Tilth
“Green Alternatives May Control Stink Bugs and Help Monarch Butterflies,” Entomology Today, https://entomologytoday.org/2014/11/06/green-alternatives-may-control-stink-bugs-and-help-monarch-butterflies/
The Vegetable Garden In August
“The month of August is a busy month in the vegetable garden.” This must be about the fifth month in a row that “The Monthly Tips and Tasks” article has begun with that sentence. Perhaps you’re beginning to believe that every month in the vegetable garden is a busy month. Me,too. Well, let’s begin with the short version of the August to-do list: continue harvesting vegetables, continue removing spent spring and summer crops, plant fall crops and cover crops, and, of course, continue weeding.
Speaking of weeds, I am always amazed at how they continue to pop up week after week and year after year. I am often asked: where do they come from and why so many? They can be blown in by the wind, washed in by surface water, and introduced by birds and other wildlife. And the weed inventory can also be increased with the application of organic mater: compost and manure. One of my biggest gardening surprises was the day I learned that the majority of weeds come from seeds we gardeners plant ourselves. Whoa, hold on! Gardeners plant weeds? You bet, every time a weed is allowed to go to seed, they replant themselves in our garden. Okay, by now you are thinking it’s August, it’s hot and I got sweaty just walking to the garden! How are a few weeds going to seed in the garden going to make a difference? Well, you are going to be surprised!
A garden friend once remarked, “Certain weeds have mastered every survival skill except learning to grow in straight rows! And it’s as if they are the home team; they always win because they bat last.” One of the survival skills that weeds have truly mastered is their ability to produce an abundant seed crop. How abundant you ask? Well, many common weeds have the ability to produce thousands of seeds that are deposited on the earth, and these seeds can remain fertile for up to 40 years or more after they are added to the weed “seed bank.” A seed bank is simply the collection of weed seeds in the soil. Let’s look a little closer at that seed bank.
A single weed plant can produce a great number of seeds. Examples of individual plants that produce a hefty number of seeds include: red pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus — 117,000 seeds per plant), common purslane (Portulaca oleracea — 52,000 seeds per plant), shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris — 38,000), common lambsquarters (Chenopodium album — 28,000) and yellow foxtail (Setaria glauca — 12,000).
In addition to producing vast quantities of seeds for germination, weed seeds have a protective coating and have the ability to lay dormant in the soil up to 40 years or more and still remain viable for germination.
This annual collection of seeds, if present in the garden or seed bank, makes weeds a tough adversary. It is estimated that the seed bank can be depleted by 80-90 percent within 2-3 year period of control. However, the seed bank can be replenished with a single year of bad control. Did you ever wonder about the origin of that old gardening proverb, “One year of seeding makes seven years of weeding”? Think of that weed seed bank in the garden waiting to sprout! So getting those weeds out of the garden before they produce seeds can make a big difference in reducing the number of weeds in years to come.
Common Purslane (Portulaca oleracea). A single plant can produce up to 52,000 seeds.
Photo: Oregon State University
Red Pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus). A single plant can produce up to 117,000 seeds.
Photo: Maine.gov
August is a transition month; the vegetable garden is moving from late spring and summer crops to cool weather or fall crops. The gardener who fails to plant a fall garden is often missing out on a remarkable growing season. Here in central Virginia, we can harvest fresh produce well into the fall and often into early winter. No matter how ragged the summer garden looks, a fall garden offers us not only a second growing season, but also a second chance to plant those early spring crops that failed in the summer heat. August in central Virginia is fall planting season — the time to plan and plant a fall garden. Timely planting is the key to a successful fall garden.
The following planting chart was created by using the Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication No. 426-334, “Fall Vegetable Gardening.”
| August 1-10 | August 11-20 | August 21-31 | ||
| Beets | ||||
| Brussels Sprouts* | ||||
| Broccoli* | Broccoli* | |||
| Cabbage* | Cabbage* | |||
| Carrots | ||||
| Cauliflower* | Cauliflower* | |||
| Chard, Swiss | Chard, Swiss | |||
| Collards | Collards | |||
| Cucumbers | Cucumbers | |||
| Chinese Cabbage* | Chinese Cabbage* | |||
| Endive | Endive | |||
| Kale | Kale | Kale | ||
| Kohlrabi | Kohlrabi | Kohlrabi | ||
| Lettuce, bibb | Lettuce, bibb | Lettuce, bibb | ||
| Lettuce, leaf | Lettuce, leaf | Lettuce, leaf | ||
| Mustard | Mustard | Mustard | ||
| Peas, Garden | Peas, Garden | |||
| Radish | Radish | |||
| Rutabaga | Rutabaga | |||
| Spinach | Spinach | Spinach | ||
| Turnips | Turnips | Turnips | ||
| Cover Crops: | ||||
| Buckwheat | Buckwheat | Buckwheat | ||
| * Denotes Transplants | ||||
| The suggested dates may vary for different areas. | ||||
More Gardening Tips and Tasks For August:
- When choosing vegetables for the fall garden, select those that are semi-hardy, as they will tolerate a light to moderate frost, and look for those with quick maturity (fewest days to harvest). This information will be listed on the seed packet or in the seed catalog.
- Vegetables that can be planted in August include leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach, collards, kale and mustard. Radishes, turnips, beets and carrots can all be started from seeds in August. Chinese cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and brussel sprouts can be transplanted in August and still have enough time to produce a good harvest. When selecting plants for transplanting at the local gardening center, be sure you are selecting edible (not ornamental) varieties of cabbage and kale.
- Fall plants often have fewer insect problems, as they avoid the peak insect activity period of midsummer. However, some insects, such as cabbageworm and corn earworm, may be worse late in the year than in the summer; vigilance is still required. Avoid some pests and diseases by planting crops of different families than were originally in that section of garden.
- When planting fall crops, prepare the soil by restoring the nutrients removed by spring and summer crops. A light layer of compost, or a small application of an organic or complete fertilizer will provide the nutrients needed by your fall crops.
- Dry soil can making working the soil difficult and can also inhibit seed germination during the late summer. Plant fall vegetables when the soil is moist — after a rain or after you’ve watered the area thoroughly the day before planting. Plant the seeds slightly deeper than recommended for spring planting. Once planted, water them in thoroughly, and then use mulch or a covering of compost to prevent the soil from crusting.
- Watering properly is the key to conserving water in the heat of the late summer. One inch per week applied all at one time will wet the soil 6 to 8 inches deep and insure good yield from your mature crops. Two inches of organic mulch such as leaves or straw will cool the soil and reduce surface evaporation of water. Water the garden early in the day so the foliage dries before nightfall. Wet foliage at night increases susceptibility to fungus diseases.
- When mulching around young seedlings, care should be taken not to cover the seedlings. Young seedlings need as much sunlight as possible, and the mulch should be covering the soil — not engulfing the young plants.
- Pick summer squash and zucchini every day or two to keep the plants producing. If you are going on vacation this month, harvest all your vegetables beforehand, and then arrange for someone to pick fast-maturing crops such as squash and okra while you’re off loafing. Otherwise, your vegetables will become over-mature and stop producing,
- Potatoes continue to grow as long as the tops are green. Dig only as many as you need for immediate use. The tubers will keep better in the ground than in a warm dry area.
- Consider planting a cover crop. A cover crop such as annual rye decreases erosion of the soil during the winter, shades out weeds, adds organic material when it is incorporated into the soil in spring, improves the soil structure and adds valuable nutrients. Cover crops can be sown between rows of fall vegetables a month or less before expected harvest. The cover crops will get a head start and not interfere with vegetable plant growth. Buckwheat will be killed by frost but can be sown as a cover crop up to 6-8 weeks before a killing frost, usually about the 3rd or 4th week in October.
- Garden vegetables that become over-ripe are easy targets for some pests. Remove them as soon as possible to avoid detection by pests.
- Having trouble locating your tools in the garden amongst your plants? Paint the handles of your garden tools a bright color other than green or tie a piece of bright orange surveyor’s tape around the handle.
During the hot dog days of August, one of the last things a vegetable gardener wants to think about is planting more crops. But look ahead to the fall garden, which offers its own satisfaction through its prolonged harvest of fresh vegetables, savings in food costs and knowing that you are making full use of your gardening space and season.
Thanks for joining us in The Garden Shed. We look forward to you stopping by next month.
Sources:
“Weed Management on Organic Farms,” http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/weed-management-on-organic-farms , Center For Environmental Farming Systems, North Carolina State http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/2113.html
“Why So Many Weeds? The Weed Seed Bank,” Colorado State University Publication 2113, http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/2113.html
“August Monthly Tip Sheets – August Vegetables,” http://offices.ext.vt.edu/albemarle/programs/anr/tip-sheets/8-14-vegetables.pdf (Relf, Diane, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture, Virginia Cooperative Extension-Albemarle County/Charlottesville)
“Fall Vegetable Gardening,” Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication 426-334, http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-334/426-334.html
The Ornamental Garden in August
Have you ever wondered about the origin of the expression “dog days of summer?” Actually, the expression has nothing to do with dogs. It refers to the 40-day period, from July 3 to August 11, when the Dog Star, Sirius, rises at the same time as the sun. This period coincides with the time of year when summer is at its sultriest – a time when we humans (and dogs) seek refuge from the heat in the air conditioned comfort of our homes.
But what about our ornamental gardens? We can’t just abandon them to fend for themselves. On the one hand, we want them to look beautiful in the summer. On the other hand, we harbor secret hopes that they will cope with the heat just fine without human intervention. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work that way. Despite the heat and humidity, it’s important to stay alert to the needs of the garden.
Watch for Signs of Drought Stress
In addition to normal summer heat and humidity, we often experience spotty rains, or long stretches without rain, resulting in drought conditions. Even if the soil has adequate moisture, some plants tend to wilt in intense heat because their foliage loses water faster than their roots can absorb it. Normally, they revive by early evening when the sun starts to set and temperatures drop. If they don’t, take pity on them and water them deeply.
Lack of water affects plants in various ways, depending on the species of plant and the level of stress to which they are subjected. In addition to wilting, which is frequently the first sign of drought stress, look for the following signs:
- Premature fall color on trees – This indicates that the leaves have stopped producing chlorophyll and is a signal that the tree may be in trouble. Drought stress may be the problem but not necessarily. Repeated defoliation by Japanese beetles or other insects, for example, can stress a tree. Also, the problem could be caused by damage from weed eaters and lawn mowers or from lack of oxygen at the root level if the tree was planted too deeply. Some detective work may be required to properly diagnose the problem.
- Leaf Scorch – This condition appears as a browning of leaf margins and tips.
Leaf Scorch
It is commonly observed on deciduous trees, such as maples, oaks, lindens, horse chestnuts, dogwoods and Japanese maples, and on broad-leaved evergreen plants such as magnolias, rhododendrons, hollies, and Japanese Andromeda (Pieris japonica). Leaf scorch may be the result of a combination of factors, including high temperatures, drying winds, and low soil moisture.
- Shedding of leaves – Some trees sacrifice their older leaves in an effort to conserve water. By shedding the older leaves, trees can then divert moisture to new growth and buds. TIP: Pay attention to evergreens. Although water stressed, they often do not provide any clues to their condition and may stay green until it’s too late.
- Shoot dieback – Drought may make some woody plants (trees and shrubs) more susceptible to canker diseases, which are localized fungal infections that can cause the dieback of twigs and branches. Typically, a canker appears on a tree branch or twig as a sunken, slightly discolored lesion. Prune the twig or branch several inches behind the lesion. Do not cut into the lesion. Otherwise, you may renew or spread the fungal activity. Use rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution to sterilize pruners after each cut.
A drought this year may affect the health and vigor of next year’s plants. For example, water-stressed shrubs that are forming flower buds for next year’s display may produce fewer buds and smaller leaves. Fruiting shrubs, such as winterberries, may drop their berries.
Don’t take a Break from the Ongoing Battle with Weeds
While all our ornamentals are gasping for water and respite from the heat, weeds just merrily roll along, none the worse for wear. In a perverse sort of way, weeds thrive on heat and humidity and need to be controlled before they set seed. Naturally, every weed that produces seed means more weeds and more work for you next year.
Stay alert to plant pests and diseases
Just as weeds appear to thrive in sweltering heat, bugs and diseases don’t seem to be impeded by it either. Stay on the alert for such problems as:
- Rust – This fungal disease occurs when relative humidity is high and moisture stands on leaf surfaces for extended periods of time. Rust fungi produce masses of yellow, orange, brown, or rust-colored spores as part of their life cycle. Like powdery mildew, rust is an unsightly disease but it rarely kills a plant outright. It will, however, stunt a plant and reduce its vigor. Rust is particularly common on ornamental plants such as asters, daylilies, dianthus, irises, hollyhocks and phlox. For mild infections, remove infected leaves to contain the disease. For severe damage from rust, apply an appropriate fungicide.
- Fall Webworms – A widely distributed native pest of shade trees and shrubs, fall webworms appear in mid- to late summer through early fall. They skeletonize and consume leaves inside the protection of a tent-like silken web, which they spin over the foliage they are consuming. See Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication 2808-1013, Fall Webworm, for additional information on the life cycle of this pest and methods for its control.
- Spider Mites — These tiny pests are common in the ornamental landscape and can inflict serious damage to flowers, shrubs and both evergreen and deciduous trees during hot, dry weather. Spider mites have needle-like mouthparts, which they use to pierce the leaves of host plants so that they can suck out the fluids from individual plant cells. This results in a stippled or flecked appearance on leaves. Prolonged damage may cause leaves to yellow and drop off, similar to the damage caused by drought stress. It may be too late to eradicate spider mites this year, but note their symptoms so that you can use safe and effective controls in the future. Remove them with a strong stream of water or apply a miticide as necessary.
- Scale Insects –
Scale insects on the stem of Cornus sanguinea
The accompanying photo represents just one of more than 1,000 armored (hard) and soft-bodied scale species that exist in North America. Many species of scale are difficult to detect unless you know what to look for. Immobile, these insects attach themselves to twigs, leaves, and stems of plants. They use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to extract fluid from twigs and branches, causing loss of vigor, yellowing of foliage, and branch dieback to a range of trees, shrubs, and other ornamentals as well as houseplants. The scale species most commonly found in Virginia include euonymous scale, cottony camellia scale, obscure scale, white peach scale, and wax scale. At the newly hatched or juvenile stage, scale insects are called crawlers. Depending on the species, more than one generation may be born per growing season resulting in crawlers during May and June and then again in August and September. Camellias, hollies, dogwoods, beeches, oaks, and maples are just a few species that are susceptible to scale. Ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps are natural predators of scale insects. At the crawler stage, scale insects are also vulnerable to insecticides. VCE Publication 2808-1012, Scale Insects (ext.vt.edu/2808/2808-1012) provides additional information.
Tasks for the August Garden
In addition to the usual deadheading, watering, and weeding, concentrate on:
- Dividing – Identify perennials that need to be divided in your garden. Many perennials benefit from being divided every 3 to 5 years. Either divide them now or wait a few weeks until the weather cools a bit in September. If dividing results in more plants than you can use, pot up any extras for spring plant sales or for sharing. Sink the pot into the ground or use a cold frame to overwinter. Just remember to water newly divided plants until they become well established.
- Fertilizing – Cut back and fertilize leggy annuals in beds, containers, and hanging baskets to produce a new flush of growth. Don’t, however, fertilize perennials, trees, or shrubs at this time. Late summer fertilizing produces tender new growth that will probably be damaged by cold weather.
- Cleaning up – Remove fallen rose and peony leaves. They can harbor disease and insect pests over the winter if allowed to remain on the ground.
- Planting – Plant trees, shrubs and perennials later this month so that they have time to settle in before winter. Prepare the hole in advance so that the plant can be transferred from its container and into its permanent home as quickly as possible. Water immediately and monitor closely while the plant is getting established.
- Maintaining – If you have a pond, keep it topped off and free of algae.
Plan Ahead
Now that you’ve got the August garden under control and looking its best, take a break from your labors and begin thinking about next season’s garden. Autumn is just around the corner. Soon, it will be time to plant spring bulbs. For best selections, order bulbs now while supplies are plentiful.
In Celebration of Salvias
Some serious gardeners talk about going through their “salvia stage of life” as if it were a rite of passage with a definite beginning and end. Counting myself as a serious gardener, I don’t recall when I entered my salvia stage of life. I just know I’m still in it and don’t plan to leave it anytime soon. Around mid-May, I rejoice when the vivid colors of early blooming salvias announce the transition from spring to summer. I depend on the drought-tolerant, summer-blooming salvias to add excitement and pizzazz to the mid-season border. And I am reluctant to bid farewell to the magnificent fall-blooming varieties when they succumb to the first frost.
Nearly 1,000 species, not counting hybrids, belong to the genus Salvia, making it the largest member of the Lamiaceae (mint) family. You can tell salvias belong to the mint family because of their characteristic square stems and opposite leaves, which generally emit a strong scent when crushed.
Garden-worthy salvia species (commonly called “sage”) range from tough-as-nails perennials to extensively hybridized tender annuals. Salvias come in all colors of the rainbow – red, blue, purple, white, yellow and a variety of fascinating shades in between. Many of their flowers are held in prominent spikes above the foliage. The calyces (cups that hold the blossoms in place) often contrast in color with the blossoms, adding additional texture and interest and extending the show long after the blooms have faded.
Salvia falls into the “bet you can’t plant just one” category. With so many colorful selections to choose from, it’s easy to become enamored by this species. They are reliable bloomers when the summer heat is oppressive and there’s not a rain cloud in sight. Not only do they add much needed color to the late summer garden, they also attract and feed a wide range of pollinators, including bees, butterflies, moths, and hummingbirds.
SELECTED SALVIA SPECIES
The vast majority of salvias hail from other parts of the world, including Central and South America, Asia, Africa and Europe. About 50 species are native to North America. As large as this genus is, it’s not practical to describe all the known species. The following selections represent just a few of the species and cultivars that are generally easy to find and grow in this area of Virginia. If you are new to salvias, your quandary will be deciding which ones you like best.
Salvia greggii (Autumn Sage) – This species is native to western Texas and northern Mexico. Tough, hardy, drought tolerant, and a hummingbird magnet, it has found its way into mainstream ornamental gardens throughout the U.S. It typically grows 2 to 3 feet tall and slightly wider and is hardy in USDA Zone 7. Flower colors include red, pink, rose, purple, orange, and white. Prune it hard in early spring to prevent it from becoming woody and to encourage bushiness. A few of the many cultivars (usually between S. greggii and S. microphylla) available include:
- ‘Hot Lips’ – 3 ft. tall with red and white bicolor flowers of which some are solid red, some are white, and some are white with red lips. Hardy to USDA Zone 6.
- ‘Dark Dancer’ – 4 ft. tall with deep fuschia flowers. One of the larger Autumn Sages.
- ‘Wild Watermelon’ — 3 ft. tall with deep rosy-pink flowers.
- ‘Flame’ — 2 to 3 ft. tall with deep red flowers.
- ‘Maraschino’ – 3 ft. tall with scarlet red flowers.
Salvia greggii ‘Maraschino’
- ‘Wild thing’ – 2 ft. tall with deep coral pink, darker-throated flowers. This selection has greater cold hardiness than the species.
Salvia guaranitica (Blue Anise Sage) – Hardy to USDA Zone 7, this big, bold South American native reaches 5 to 6 feet. Its large, dark green leaves are attractive even when the plant is not in bloom. But when it blooms, the brilliant blue flowers and darker-hued calyces make this plant a show stopper from summer until frost. Although a number of cultivars are available, ‘Black and Blue’ is the one most commonly found in garden centers. It is smaller than the species, averaging 3 feet in height and width. It is particularly attractive with its azure blue flowers and contrasting black calyces. Cut it back hard in winter to prevent the development of woody stems.
Salvia koyamae (Japanese Yellow Sage) – This species likes moist soil and prefers shade. It tolerates some sun and is hardy to at least USDA Zone 6. It produces more flowers in sun than in shade. Regardless of where it is planted, the 7 to 12-in. spikes of pale yellow flowers add interest to the late summer and autumn landscape. It tends to spread and will eventually form a dense ground cover.
Salvia microphylla (Mountain Sage or Little Leaf Sage) – Hardy to USDA zone 8, this species is usually grown as an annual in USDA Zone 7. It is well known for crossing with other salvia species. For example, S. greggii and S. microphylla have many similar characteristics and are often mistaken for each other. S. microphylla tolerates more shade, moisture and growing conditions than S. greggii. Although it is ideal in a sunny border or container, it appreciates some afternoon shade during the intense heat of mid-summer.
Hardy Perennial Species/Cultivars – Because of their wide distribution and ability to hybridize easily both in the wild and in cultivation, there is confusion about the lineage of many salvia cultivars and hybrids. It’s possible, for example, to find Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ labeled as salvia x sylvestris ‘Caradonna.’
- Salvia x sylvestris ‘May Night’ –
Salvia x sylvestris ‘May Night’ with catmint in foreground
Also sold as ‘Mainacht’, this top-performing selection is in great demand because of its bountiful flower production, winter hardiness, and upright habit. One of the first salvias to bloom each year, its deep violet-blue flowers fairly dominate the May landscape. If dead-headed, it will continue to bloom sporadically, but blooms will be smaller than the initial spring display.
- Salvia x sylvestris ‘Blue Hill’ — This is another popular spring-blooming salvia with lavender-blue flowers that are lighter than those of ‘May Night’. This cold hardy cultivar does well in heavy clay soils, is drought tolerant, and is a good choice for a xeric garden. Because Blue Hill has a tendency to flop, ‘May Night’, with its more upright habit, may be a better choice.
- Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ –
Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’
This very showy, early-blooming salvia has a neat vertical habit and stunning deep blue-violet flower spikes. The dark purple stems contrast with the flower spikes and lend a bi-color look to the plant. The additional color provided by the stems keeps the plant looking interesting long after the flowers have faded. ‘Caradonna’ blooms in early summer and then sporadically throughout the summer if the spent flowers are deadheaded.
- Salvia nemorosa ‘Sensation Sky Blue’ – This 10-in. tall, compact, densely branched selection grows into a perfectly rounded mound, which can be placed at the front of the border. The flowers are medium violet blue and secondary branching extends the flowering time through mid-summer. Its dense habit makes it a good ground cover and weed suppressor in the landscape.
Tender Perennial and Annual Salvia Species and Cultivars – No description of salvias would be complete without mentioning some of the numerous widely available tender perennial and annual selections.
- Salvia coccinea (Scarlet, Tropical, or Texas Sage) – This species has the distinction of being the only salvia native to the U.S. to have red flowers. Hardy only to USDA Zone 8, it must be treated as an annual in Virginia’s USDA Zone 7, although it does freely re-seed. It grows about 2 to 3 feet tall. The red form is most common, but many S. coccinea selections are available in other colors, including pink and white selections, such as ‘Coral Nymph’ and ‘Snow Nymph’, respectively. ‘Lady in Red’, with its large, bright red flowers, is perhaps the best known of this species. It was chosen as an All-America Selections Winner in 1992. ‘Summer Jewel Red’, a 20-in. tall dwarf selection with fire engine red flowers, was winner of an All America Selection award in 2011.
- Salvia elegans (Pineapple Sage) –
Salvia elegans (Pineapple Sage)
This attractive, tender perennial may be used in both the ornamental garden and the herb garden. Just give it plenty of room since it can grow to about 4 feet tall and wide. Its large size and long, bright red tubular flowers draw all kinds of pollinators and are a major attraction to hummingbirds. The pineapple-scented leaves may be used in salads, tea, and other drinks. A selection called ‘Golden Delicious’ has colorful chartreuse foliage which contrasts with the bright red flowers, making them really stand out in the garden.
- Salvia farinacea (Mealy Cup Sage) –
Salvia farinacea ‘Victoria Blue’
This is one of the finest, longest flowering salvias available and is typically grown in USDA Zone 7 as an annual. Native to the United States, it is well represented in gardens all around the country. Mealy Cup sage flowers are predominately blue or purple and are also available in white. ‘Augusta Buelberg’ is an example of a white specimen. ‘Victoria Blue’ is perhaps the best known Mealy Cup sage and is loved for its constant supply of abundant, rich violet-blue blossoms from early summer all the way up to the first frost. Although not normally hardy in USDA Zone 7, it sometimes survives our milder winters only to grow more vigorously than before. It can also self-seed and may delight you in spring by popping up in unexpected places throughout the garden. Just dig up the seedlings and re-plant them where you want them.
- ‘Indigo Spires’ is believed to be a cross between S. farinacea and S. longispicata, both of which are native to Mexico. This hybrid produces long spikes of gorgeous deep blue flowers and is one of the most popular of all the cultivated salvias. Hardy only to the warmer parts of USDA Zone 7, it is best treated as an annual in this part of Virginia. It needs plenty of room because it can quickly grow to 4 feet or more tall and wide. Pinch it back to keep its size under control and to prevent it from flopping over from the weight of its long flower spikes. If you are limited for space, try ‘Mystic Spires Blue’, which is a smaller version of this plant.
- Salvia leucantha (Mexican Bush Sage) –
Salvia leucantha (Mexican Bush Sage) with S. farinacea ‘Victoria Blue’ in background
Native to Mexico, this plant is spectacular in the late summer garden with its rich purple velvety-looking flower spikes. Plant it in well-drained soil and give it plenty of space. The show stopper can grow 5 feet tall and wide. If you cannot accommodate a plant that large in your garden, look for a dwarf variety, such as ‘Santa Barbara’, which grows about 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Treat it as an annual or root a cutting in early fall to winter over.
- Salvia splendens (Scarlet Sage) — A popular annual used for bedding plants, it provides a steady supply of bright color to the garden all season long. Many varieties are available in saturated shades of red, purple, pink, yellow, white, and bicolors held in large flower spikes above deep green foliage. Give some afternoon shade for best results.
USES FOR SALVIA IN THE LANDSCAPE
Depending on the species you plant, it’s possible to have salvias in bloom from mid-spring through late fall. Here are some suggested ways to use them in the landscape:
- Xeriscape gardens. Most salvia species are drought tolerant and good choices for drier gardens.
- Bedding plants. The annual species (S. splendens and S. farinacea) are favorites with many gardeners for bedding plants because of their reliable vivid colors all summer up to the first frost.
- Wild flower gardens or meadows. Long blooming native species, such as S. greggii, and S. azurea, and non-native species, such as S. sylvestris and S. nemorosa, are excellent choices for this purpose because of their drought tolerance and easy care.
- Butterfly or pollinator gardens. Bees and butterflies love salvia.
- Hummingbird garden. If you want to attract hummingbirds, salvia is the right plant for the job. Pineapple sage, with its fruity scent and bright red tubular blossoms, is particularly effective. Just plant it, stand back, and watch the show. Believe me, if you plant it, they will come.
- Deer-resistant gardens. Deer don’t like the strong scent of the foliage when it is crushed.
- Mass plantings. The saturated colors show well when planted in masses. They look particularly pretty when planted along a fence or against a stone wall.
- Mixed borders. Some of the perennial varieties, such as ‘May Night’, work well in groupings within a mixed border, especially when paired with contrasting yellow, white, and even orange.
- Container gardens. Salvias, particularly the annual varieties, are excellent choices for container gardens.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF SALVIA
- Sun requirements: Although most salvia species prefer full sun, a few varieties can tolerate a little shade, especially in the afternoons.
- Soil: Salvias like average soil with excellent drainage. In fact, good drainage is especially critical in the winter for members of this genus. Overly rich soil can cause the plants to be leggy in appearance. Heavy clay soil can retard root growth and contribute to root rot problems. Amend such soil with composted organic matter prior to planting salvia.
- Moisture: Most salvias are drought tolerant once established but will bloom better with regular watering. A few varieties appreciate moister soil.
- Deadheading: Removing spent blooms encourages a longer bloom time.
- Pruning/shearing: Some salvias, such as S. greggii or S. microphylla, bloom non-stop from spring through the first frost. Others, such as S. nemerosa, have a heavy flush of blooms in late spring or early summer and sporadic blooms thereafter. In either case, if blooms become sparse or if plants become leggy and unkempt, prune or shear them back to the crown to encourage fresh new growth. This will also encourage the plant to rebloom in the fall but the flowers will be fewer and smaller.
- Winter protection: For hardy varieties, leave foliage in place in autumn to protect the plant’s crown. Salvia stems are hollow (thanks to their membership in the mint family). Water can enter the stems and freeze, which can injure the crown. Wait until late winter or early spring to cut the plants back.
- Propagation: Many salvia species can be grown from seed. However, some hybrids, such as ‘Indigo Spires’, are sterile and cannot be grown from seed. Instead, they can be rooted from cuttings, which can be taken any time during the growing season. Perennial species may be divided early in spring before new growth emerges.
- Plant Diseases: Salvias are prone to fungal diseases such as powdery mildew, rust, stem rot and fungal leaf spots. These diseases may be avoided if proper cultural practices are used. For example, space plants to allow for good air circulation, amend soil so that it drains well, and avoid overhead irrigation or watering late in the day.
- Pests: Salvias may occasionally be bothered by insect pests, such as whiteflies, aphids, mealybugs and spider mites. Maintaining healthy, vigorous plants is your best strategy against pests. Healthy plants are less susceptible to pest damage than unhealthy or stressed plants. A spray of water from a hose may dislodge such pests and is the least damaging to the environment.
SOURCES
Armitage’s Garden Perennials, Second Edition (Armitage, Allan M., 2011)
Plant Evaluation Notes: A Performance Appraisal of Hardy Sages, Chicago Botanic Garden website (Plant Evaluation Notes on Hardy Sages)
Herbaceous Perennial Plants, Third Edition (Armitage, Allan M., 2008)
The New Book of Salvias: Sages for Every Garden (Clebsch, Betsy, 2003)
The Well-Tended Perennial Garden (DiSabato-Aust, Tracy, 2006)
Plan Now for a Beautiful Spring Lawn
It may be hot, humid, hazy August in central Virginia, but now is the time to begin thinking of lawn renovation. Your lawn now is probably in the worst condition of the year due to our hot summers and lack of rain which is why it is called a “transition zone” for cool season grasses e.g. fescue. Yellow, brown, thin, dead spots and fungus are not unusual for this time of the year. 
However, don’t give up! Fall is the best time of the year to seed/reseed, fertilize and lime, aerate and even sod your yard if desired. First, this is a great time to do a soil test if not done within the last 3 years. That way you will be ready with a plan come September. In the March, 2015 issue of The Garden Shed, Janet Anastasi says a soil test is the best investment you can make for planning purchases of fertilizer and soil amendments. In the September issue there will be a feature article on soil with more details on soil features.
Soil testing
If the ground is not too hard, collect a soil sample by mid-August. Soil test kits are available at your local Virginia Cooperative Extension Office located at 460 Stagecoach Road, just off of Fifth Street Extended in Charlottesville. The samples should only be taken from the lawn, not flower or vegetable gardens or mulched areas. If the front yard looks completely different than the back yard, 2 samples would be a good idea.
Equipment- shovel, trowel, or soil sampler, and a clean plastic bucket. The tools should not be brass, bronze or galvanized because they can contaminate the sample with copper or zinc. 
Samples- Dig down 3-4 inches, remove the debris on the top of the sample and place in a dry, clean bucket. Take about 10-20 samples in representative areas, mix the dirt thoroughly removing rocks and twigs and pack in a soil test box to the fill line. Do NOT use wet soil. Allow it to dry if necessary or delay sampling until the ground is drier. Assign a sample ID such as “front yard” to the box and complete the paperwork. The sample can then be sent to VA Tech and the results will be returned by email within 2 weeks. The mailing address and directions will be on the included paperwork. Be sure to indicate on the paperwork that you are sampling a lawn, otherwise you will receive no recommendations for any improvements needed.
Final report-The results will include the pH level, available phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (M), zinc (z), manganese (Mn), copper (C) and iron (Fe) components of your soil. Lastly, recommendations will be made for the amount of fertilizer and lime if needed. The report cannot provide a quantification of N or nitrogen which is in most fertilizer, but recommendations will be included for fertilizer amounts. It is important to know how large your lawn is in square feet to determine the amount of amendments to be added. It is harmful and a waste of money to add too much to the lawn. For help measuring go to http://igrow.org/gardens/gardening/first-step-to-lawn-care-measure-your-lawn/
pH- One of the most important factors for the lawn is the pH. This is a measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of the soil and is a major determining factor if nutrients can be easily absorbed. In our area, the soil tends to naturally be more acid meaning a pH of < 7.0 and usually much lower. An ideal pH for lawns is 6.2. For a detailed explanation of the contents of a soil test report, go to https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/452/452-701/452-701.html.
Aeration
Core aeration is a recommended cultural practice to maintain and encourage a healthy lawn. It is especially important for compacted, heavily used turf and those with thatch buildup of more than half an inch. 
Aeration is a process that removes small soil plugs or cores from your lawn. Each core is 1/2 to 3/4 inches wide and 3-6 inches long. Depending on the machine, the holes are about 2-6 inches apart. These finger like cores are deposited on the lawn itself and will disintegrate and filter back down into the soil after it rains. Mingling soil and thatch hastens the decomposition of thatch. The machine can be rented for half or whole days. Going in with the neighbors and renting it for a whole day is helpful.
The Virginia Cooperative Extension agents believe that core aeration benefits your lawn by:
- Increasing the activity of soil microorganisms that decompose thatch
- Increasing water, nutrient and oxygen movement into the soil and carbon dioxide out
- Improving rooting
- Enhancing infiltration of rainfall or irrigation(better drainage)
- Helping prevent fertilizer and pesticide run off from overly compacted areas
For more details on aeration I discussed it in the November issue of The Garden Shed. Go to http://pmgarchives.com/article/aerating-your-lawn/.
Overseeding
Most lawns do not need complete renovation, meaning starting all over. This is done only when >50% of the lawn is bare or weed covered. Overseeding your current lawn over several years is an easier process, but still a lot of work depending on the size of the yard.
Try to determine why your lawn is failing. This may require some education or even consultation with a professional or the extension office. Consider these possibilities:
- Inappropriate mowing heights
- Too much shade
- Not enough organic matter
- Compaction because of its usage
- Environmental challenges such as too much or too little rain
- Neglect
- Wrong type of grass seed for intended purpose
- Poor drainage
- Nutrient deficiencies including pH extremes
Soil preparation
As Dr. Mike Goatley, turf specialist for VA Tech says, “Simply applying seed over the top of an existing turf without any soil preparation usually does nothing more than feed birds and wildlife.” The seed needs to have contact with soil that has been disturbed. Aerating will create plugs that disintegrate helping add loose soil to the area. Watering the lawn prior to aeration may be necessary if the soil is too dry and hard. Additionally rake all exposed areas with a garden rake. No, golf shoes will not be sufficient for aeration! Level uneven areas with topsoil or compost. Add ¼ to ½ inch compost to entire lawn. Add lime as recommended per the soil test. Lime can only be added at a maximum rate of 50 pounds/1000sq ft. every 30 days. Lime will take time to alter the pH but it will not hurt the seed germination to do it now. Delay fertilization for one month.
Selecting Seed
The 2015-2016 Turfgrass Variety Recommendations list can be found at http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/CSES/CSES-17/CSES-17_pdf.pdf. This represents the joint recommendations of the best cultivars of turf grass variety trials at Virginia Tech and University of Maryland. These will not be easily found in box stores or even garden centers. A turf or landscape supply store may be able to help. At least select one for your specific needs such as shade or sun, drought resistant and always buy certified seed. Certified seed is a guarantee from the seller that you will get the variety listed on the label. For the Charlottesville/Albemarle Virginia area the best adapted turf is tall fescue, bluegrass mixtures or a combination. For areas with full sun use Kentucky bluegrass or hybrid bluegrass but know that this will require more mowing. Fine fescue is best for heaviest shade and tall fescue for moderate shade.
Spread seed
Ov
erseed at a rate of about 2-3 #s of seed/1000 sq. ft. of lawn area (depends on species). Putting too much seed down is detrimental as each seed needs to touch soil. Spreading half the seed in one direction and then spreading the other half at 90 degrees to your first pattern ensures the most uniform coverage. A light raking is recommended to cover the seed. Some then recommend that the seedbed be rolled which sounds like more work to me but the end result may be worth it.
Watering
New seed will need to be lightly watered regularly with the goal of not allowing seed to dry out until germinated. This may require multiple waterings per day initially until the seed germinates. Watering can then be slowed down to ½ inch every 2-3 days, unless the weather dictates differently.
Mowing
The new lawn can be mowed when it is one third taller than the desired height. For example, if the desired height is 3 inches, wait until it is about 4 inches before mowing. Be sure the lawn mower blades are sharp.
Lime
Lime can be applied anytime but it takes several months to be incorporated into the soil.
It is best applied in the fall. There are two types of lime: ground dolomitic and pelleted. Ground lime releases slowly but lasts 2-3 years. Pelleted is finely ground and then pelleted in a dispersible binder. When water comes in contact with the pellets, they dissolve and then are available. However, it does not last as long, may be needed annually and costs more. It does spread more evenly and creates less dust. Although, I have seen a mixed review on timing of fertilization and lime together, University of Connecticut Agricultural Experimental Station says limestone should not be applied within 2 weeks of fertilizer. They claim that this will avoid a chemical reaction between the two which leads to a loss of N (nitrogen) in fertilizer to the atmosphere.
Lime should only be applied at a rate of 50 pounds/1000 sq. ft. which often means several applications 30 days apart.
Fertilization
By now you must wonder why you ever wanted a nice green lawn, but we are almost finished. Why fertilize? Can too much be harmful? How do I calculate how much to put on?
Yes, fall is the optimal time of the year to fertilize cool season turf grass (e.g., Kentucky bluegrass, tall and fine fescues). The advantages of fall fertilization are increased density, increased root growth, decreased spring mowing, improved fall-spring color, decreased weed problems, increased drought tolerance, and decreased summer disease activity. Cooler temperatures and shorter days provide ideal conditions to maximize root growth and food storage prior to winter. Proper fertilization will help provide quality turf when spring arrives. However, Virginians often overuse fertilizer which can negatively impact surface and ground water quality.
Without the proper nutrients your lawn will gradually thin and weeds will invade. Healthy lawns have less disease, fewer insect and weed problems. If you have a healthy stand of grass, there is less chance for nutrient and soil runoff to surface waters.
That being said, the amount of fertilization, lime and watering depends on the individual and the amount of maintenance you are willing to dedicate.
High-maintenance lawns are characterized by vigorously growing plants. For best results these lawns are watered during the summer to maintain green growth. Clippings left on the lawn gradually decompose and reduce the need for fertilizer.
Low-maintenance lawns do not commonly receive watering (other than rainfall) during the summer months and grass growth is minimal during hot, dry periods. Clippings are usually left on the lawns.
Plants need carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. That cannot be gotten from fertilizer. They come from the atmosphere. Fertilizer is only effective if air and water get down to the shoots and roots, thus the need for aeration. Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) must be added to the soil. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are obtained by adding lime.
There are 2 types of fertilizer:
- Water soluble-in the form of ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate or urea.
- Slow release-in the form of methylene urea, sulfur coated urea, urea formaldehyde and heat treated sewage sludge.
All fertilizer packages must have three numbers present on the package such as 10-10-10 or 16-4-8. These numbers represent the percentage by weight of nitrogen or N, phosphorus or P and potassium or K. So a 50 pound bag of 10-10-10 contains 5 pounds each of nitrogen, phosphate and potassium (calculated as 50 pounds times 0.1 or 10% equals 5 pounds). These three elements are the primary minerals needed for plant growth. The package also details the percentage of other nutrients included such as iron and sulfur.
NITROGEN (N) Fall fertilizer with appropriate amounts of N lead to better turf next spring, including improved turf density, color, above ground vegetative growth and food storage. Nitrogen is absorbed by plants from the soil in the greatest quantities.
PHOSPHORUS (P) The second number on the bag is phosphorus which is essential in all phases of plant growth, most notably root growth which takes place over fall and winter.
POTASSIUM (K) Also known as potash, potassium is essential for plant growth and plants take large amounts from the soil. The word potash goes back to colonial days when wood and other organic materials were burned in pots for the manufacture of soap. The ashes were rinsed with water, collected and allowed to evaporate. The residue was largely potassium salts. Today potassium is mined from deposits deep in the earth. Plants use as much potassium as they do nitrogen which is three to four times the amount of phosphorus used.
In general lawns respond better to fertilizer ratios high in nitrogen. However, about 1 pound of N per 1000 sq. ft. should be applied in a single application when using water soluble nitrogen. Applications should be distributed at a minimum of 4 weeks apart from September through November. However, slow release fertilizers may be used in greater quantities (1.5 pounds/1000 sq. ft.) without the threat of burning the grass. Thus, I recommend using the latter. It is also called water insoluble nitrogen and says such on the bag (WIN).
The following program was developed by the Virginia Cooperative Extension to help homeowners know how many pounds of nitrogen to apply each month in the fall depending on the quality of lawn desired. As with so many things in life, we all want high quality lawns; but we have to balance our wants with the money and time we’re willing to invest.
| Water Insoluble Nitrogen(WIN) Application By Month | |||
| Quality Desired | Aug 15 to Sept 15 | Oct 1 to Nov 1 | May 15 to June 15 |
| ———————-lbs. N/1000 sq. ft. ———————- | |||
| Low | 1.5 | 0 | 0 |
| Med | 1.5 | 1.5 | 0 |
| High | 1.5 | 1.5 | 0 to 1.5 |
Application calculations:
This is the part that confuses many because it involves math. If you have a fertilizer such as 10-10-10 and want to add 1.5 pounds/1000 sq. ft. of Nitrogen, take the first number of 10 and divide by 1.5. 10/1.5 = 6.66. If you have a 1000 sq. ft. of lawn, then you would round it up to 7 pounds of fertilizer on the total lawn. If you have 5000 sq. ft., you would use 5 times that amount or 5 X 7 =35 pounds.
How to apply
It is important to uniformly apply fertilizer containing nitrogen. Lack of uniformity results in streaking or different shades of green turf in the lawn. Drop type or rotary type spreaders are best to use. When using drop type spreaders, be sure to overlap the wheel tracks since the fertilizer is distributed between the wheels. These spreaders can be difficult to maneuver around shrubs and trees. Rotary spreaders usually give a better distribution because they cover a bigger swath. Apply half the material in one direction and the other half in a perpendicular direction. Avoid application to any non-turf areas such as sidewalk, patios, driveways or roads where it may enter the water supply. Blow or sweep any fertilizer away. Do not hose it. Avoid applications if weather forecasts call for heavy rainfall. Having a 1/4 inch of rain after application is an ideal way to move fertilizer into the soil.
Good luck on your September venture to improve your lawn, using all of the additives at the right amount that is environmentally safe and hopefully with the knowledge to teach others.
Sources:
“Liming and Fertilizing Established Lawns”, Rathier, Thomas, http://www.ct.gov/caes/cwp/view.asp?a=2815&q=376936
“ Fall Lawn Care”, Goately, J.M., http://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-520/430-520.html
“Virginia Turfgrass VarietyRecommendations,” Goatley, J.M. http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/CSES/CSES-17/CSES-17_pdf.pdf
“ First Steps to Lawn Care: Measure Your lawn”, Chalmers, David, http://igrow.org/gardens/gardening/first-step-to-lawn-care-measure-your-lawn/
“Explanation of Soil tests”, Maguire, Rory, https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/452/452-701/452-701.html
“Aeration”, Bolton. N, The Garden Shed , Vol. 1, #11, 2015, http://pmgarchives.com/article/aerating-your-lawn/.
“Fertilizing lawns”, Rosen, C.J., B. P. Horgan, and R. J. Mugaas, http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/lawns/fertilizing-lawns/
“Lawn Fertilization in Virginia”, Goatley, J.M , http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-011/430-011.html
“Fall fertility strategies for Virginia’s home lawns”, Goatley, J.M., http://www.sites.ext.vt.edu/newsletter-archive/cses/2008-09/FallFertility.html
“Home lawn fertilization in Virginia: Frequently asked questions”, Chalmers, David, http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-003/430-003.html
Two Garden Vegetable Soups, Chilled
What could be more refreshing on a hot August night than a bowl of cold soup?
Classic Gazpacho
Serves 6
For many of us, cold soup is synonymous with gazpacho, the “liquid salad” of southern Spain. According to Clifford A. Wright, award winning cookbook author, gazpacho originated in the Spanish region of Andalusia, probably during the Middle Ages.
Gazpacho’s endless variations include the addition of cucumbers, green and yellow tomatoes, green beans, black and white beans, even cauliflower; others feature almonds, green grapes, or watermelon. Nearly all call for garlic, peppers, vinegar, and olive oil.
The following gazpacho recipe is one that I have tweaked to please nearly every palate. Not too thick, not too thin, not too spicy, not too bland. If you prefer a fierier bowl of soup, by all means add chili peppers, tomatillos, cayenne, or hot sauce to the mix.
Traditional tomato-based gazpacho is made with bread, soaked in olive oil, vinegar, and water. This recipe contains no gluten, but a few slices of country bread (soaked, squeezed, and added to the food processor) will definitely produce a thicker gazpacho. While I use V-8 juice, many recipes use more tomatoes and just a little water in lieu of the juice. If you prefer a chunkier version, process the vegetables very little or not at all.
Ingredients
3 cups V-8 juice 1 cucumber
¼ cup olive oil ½ red pepper
¼ cup red wine vinegar 3 stalks celery
Juice and rind of 1 lemon 2 tomatoes
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 5 green onions
2 cloves garlic 6 sprigs parsley or cilantro
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon paprika
Directions
Combine the liquids and spices in a bowl and beat to mix well. Finely chop vegetables in a food processor and add to the soup base. Stir well and refrigerate for at least 24 hours before serving.
Chilled Cucumber Soup
Serves 6
The second soup, a chilled cucumber, is a version of green gazpacho. Unlike most gazpachos, this soup contains dairy, giving it a velvety texture. I have included it here to complement the classic red gazpacho. Both soups may be garnished with fresh herbs, diced raw vegetables, croutons, sour cream, or seafood (crab and shrimp work well).
Ingredients
1 1/2 pounds cucumber
2 cups yogurt
2 cloves garlic
3 scallions, white and green parts
1 jalapeno, seeded and chopped
½ cup fresh herbs, mixed (mint, parsley, dill, tarragon, basil, cilantro)
Juice and zest of one lemon
Salt to taste
This recipe is adapted from Melissa Clark, New York Times Cooking. Melissa substitutes buttermilk for the yogurt, and sherry or white wine vinegar for the lemon juice. She includes the optional addition of two anchovy fillets.
Directions
Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth, adjusting seasoning as needed. Chill for several hours or overnight. Melissa Clark suggests garnishing the soup with raw kernels from one ear of corn, and adding a drizzle of olive oil before serving.
Resources:
http://www.cliffordawright.com/caw/food/entries/display.php/id/64/
http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1014924-chilled-cucumber-soup-with-avocado-toast